Street 750 Battery - Harley Davidson Street Forum - Street 500 and 750
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-18-2018, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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Street 750 Battery

Good Day All Master of Harley.... newbie, did my intro and now the ultimate problem solving.

My friend has a Street 750 which he seldom use, last use was like 2 months ago and obviously the battery went dead. he offered me the price i cannot refuse, If i can bring the Harley back from the dead, the bikes is mine !

Firstly Master of Harley (MOH), do not ask me to open up to the battery compartment as watch youtube street change battery, already the 1st video of 3 parts, I gave up without even trying. what I discovered was there a SAE plug already install with the battery. see few options from the web, will want to start with the cheapest option. I got myself a SAE set, SAE plug that split out to Red and Black. This is the part where MOH comes in to help please....

1) I connect to the bike SAE and can i used a 12v small car battery to fire it up.(hook to red positive, black negat)
2) i connect to the bike SAE and use a 6V scooter bike battery and fire it up.
3) I connect the the bike SAE and use a motorbike charger to charge(think around 10-12 hours ?)

Would prefer option 1, at least i know if the battery is recoverable OR I would need to tow it to the workshop (expensive option)

Look forward to all Master of Harley here before I act on it. And I want to Thank You in advance.

Cheers.
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-18-2018, 08:01 PM
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I would remove the battery. Its not difficult. Just Time Consuming. Plan on at least an hour. Take it to a Auto Parts store and have it tested.


The Battery is the Same one used in the newer Sportsters. I had a Hard Drive Lithium in my 750. Took it out and put it my 2018 Custom 1200.

2016 Hyundai Tucson SE Coliseum Grey AWD




2018 Custom 1200
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post #3 of 11 Old 07-18-2018, 09:35 PM
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Option 1 should work to start the bike, but it will tell you nothing about the state of the battery in the bike. Run the bike and see if battery recovers about as slow as option 3
Option 2 DONOT DO.
Option 3 slowest but will tell you if the battery is good.
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-19-2018, 03:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Dan,
On Option 1, am a bit confused after surfing the web. which is the best safest option to avoid frying the ECU or damage other part.

1) 12v small car battery, red positive connect to bike battery with black to negative
or
2) 12v small car battery, Red connect to bike battery and black car battery to metal of the bike.

than fire up... if can start, at least will ride to the motor shop, if battery cannot start at the workshop, will change the battery. The killer is the transport tow.

Again much appreciate.
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-19-2018, 05:14 AM
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To get to the negative battery terminal, you will need to remove the battery. The negative cable runs from the battery to just below the coolant header tank side panel. You'll see the earthing point which will be face on to you, but depending on how you are thinking of connecting to it, like a crocodile clip for instance, you will need to remove the side panel and possibly the pulley cover as well.
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post #6 of 11 Old 07-19-2018, 06:13 AM
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Just buy a new battery and swap it out with the old one = problem solved.
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-19-2018, 06:38 PM
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Based on your original description I assumed you had a pig tail attached to the battery for a charger, if this is the case then it will make little or no difference where you connect the jumper cable. The cautions about connecting the ground to a location other than the battery is to avoid a possible explosion. If there is no pig tail, Phil13 has it right.
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-24-2018, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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A big Valuable Thanks Dan and All, am starting to learned the parts name, SAE cable, Pigtail. Yup, found it comes with a pigtail and use a charger for 6 hours, was so glad when we turn on the switch, there is light, horn, sadly when wanna start, the solenoid is not moving at all. Yesterday finally got someone to change the battery, they use a test meter and was informed it should read 12+ for healthy batt, after starting, should read 13+, the dead batt tested was 2 ! will get a battery tenderer from this costly mistakes.

When they started the engine with the new batt, the Sound, IT WAS PRICELESS....

he goes to say the engine switch must be turn off as my fren just leave the engine switch to on all the time. that brings me another learning question, when one arrive at destination, do we first switch off the key ignition, than engine switch or engine switch than key ignition to off or it does not really matter.

Thank You.
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-25-2018, 05:16 PM
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I don't think there is a right or wrong way to use the kill switch and ignition switch. I normally turn the ignition switch on then turn the kill switch on when starting the bike. I normally turn the bike off by first using the kill switch then turn the ignition off. Anyway the most important thing to pay attention to is making sure the ignition switch is completely off, not left in the acc position.
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post #10 of 11 Old 07-26-2018, 01:55 AM
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I have got into a habit of always stopping the engine with the kill switch first. When I get off I turn off the key. In the back of my mind I just feel that with the kill switch in the ON position there might be a circuit that is still able to draw from the battery. I may be wrong, but in mye past 11 motorcycles I have never had a flat battery from leaving something on.
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