Turn Signal Reach Adjustment - Harley Davidson Street Forum - Street 500 and 750
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-27-2017, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Turn Signal Reach Adjustment

I'm having a hard time reaching the turn signal (and high beam) switch on my bike. Is there any way to rotate those controls downward? I'd like to just be able to reach over for the turn signal, not over and up.
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-27-2017, 07:02 PM
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Drilling holes, installing a different switch, yeah you can do it... With the know how and time/money... I could see different switches and controls being swapped over

2001 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja (RIP)
2016 Harley Davidson Street 750 (modded)

1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (10 sec baby)
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (High 12 tugboat)
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post #3 of 9 Old 02-27-2017, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Dang. I thought I could just loosen some bolts, rotate it and tighten again. I think there is a locator pin though, so maybe I could get away with just drilling a new hole in the bars for the pin.
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-28-2017, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by EGBigelo View Post
Dang. I thought I could just loosen some bolts, rotate it and tighten again. I think there is a locator pin though, so maybe I could get away with just drilling a new hole in the bars for the pin.
That's the dowel pin or locator pin as you call it, you can either cut that but then its loose and no adjustments will be needed as there will be nothing to align it and keep it level and true... If I had an interest in relocation of the combo switches, I'd look into it, but I am not having the problems you are... There are ways around that and it's possible, but finding the right technician, plus time and money are needed... Youtube can only take you so far...

2001 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja (RIP)
2016 Harley Davidson Street 750 (modded)

1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (10 sec baby)
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (High 12 tugboat)
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-28-2017, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by EGBigelo View Post
Dang. I thought I could just loosen some bolts, rotate it and tighten again. I think there is a locator pin though, so maybe I could get away with just drilling a new hole in the bars for the pin.
Having just replaced my grips, I can tell you that I'm pretty sure that what you describe will work. Two allen-head bolts will get the switch assembly off. Then you'll see that inside the top portion is a locator pin, and there's a hole in the handlebar. It would seem logical that you could just drill a new hole, rotate the switch housing, and then bolt it back together.

Go ahead and pull the bolts and open up the housing and look for yourself. Nothing will fall out or break, so there's nothing to worry about, and see how much rotation would be necessary to get it where you want it and if there would be enough space from the prior hole so that drilling a new hole would work. Obviously you can't overlap the old hole.
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-28-2017, 04:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Gaijin. I just removed the bolts and see what you are talking about. From the size of the hole, looks like I have just enough room to drill a new hole without overlapping, and have about 2mm in between. I'm going to give it a try.
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-28-2017, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by EGBigelo View Post
Thanks Gaijin. I just removed the bolts and see what you are talking about. From the size of the hole, looks like I have just enough room to drill a new hole without overlapping, and have about 2mm in between. I'm going to give it a try.
I've replaced dozens of grips and 3 different 500/750s already, be careful while drilling a new hole, a step bit would be best, along with starting a chamfered hole to make sure it stays level and countersink it afterwards... 2mm is not that big of a gap to drill another hole without messing it up entirely... Measure twice, cut once...

2001 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja (RIP)
2016 Harley Davidson Street 750 (modded)

1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (10 sec baby)
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (High 12 tugboat)
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-01-2017, 01:44 AM
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There is a way to solve this. File down the dowel pin as it is plastic and use a thin rubber tubing to get the grip back while relocation and screwing it on.
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-01-2017, 08:37 AM
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There is a way to solve this. File down the dowel pin as it is plastic and use a thin rubber tubing to get the grip back while relocation and screwing it on.
Of course you can do that, but remember that dowel pin serves 2 purposes, alignment and holding the clocking position for the combo switches... Once you file that down there is no turning back, permanent modification...

And the rubber tape or electrical tape as I remember old school guys doing, will eventually wear out and back to square 1, vibrations, along with now the sticky film or peeling off torqued and old rubber, have fun.... I personally wouldn't do that to my handlebars, but as I said to each their own, you pay for it, it's your bike, customize to your heart's content, but then when people actually give advice and either you take it and run or banter back and forth then don't ask for it in the first place... Not saying you, but other people here wear their heart on their sleeves and don't realize when they ask a question, and it gets answered more than 1 time 3 different ways, there's only so much you can do...
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2016 Harley Davidson Street 750 (modded)

1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD (10 sec baby)
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (High 12 tugboat)
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