The difference between all the aftermarket intakes and exhausts is negligible as none are tuned. All the aftermarket mufflers are cat-back and NONE have any sort of tuning such as a reverse-cone megaphone system or a stepped-design system. The difference between S&S Stealth intake, VO2 intake, or any other aftermarket intake is also negligible as none uses long tuned intake runners. Zero tuning going on here...
My Honda CRF230F has a tuned reverse-cone megaphone exhaust system with stepped head pipe designed by Frank Nye at Engines Only. The result is leaner main due to stronger signal and reduced dilution of incoming charge. My Yamaha SRX600 has very long tuned intake runners that I fabricated after much R&D. Th result is stronger signal at the mains and slightly rich condition in midrange. The aftermarket stuff for XG750A Street Rod is NOTHING like what I have on these two bikes. If we had actual tuned intake runners we would have something like we see here in these dyno tests: http://www.phaedrus.me/id158.html
All I want to know is if there is a map for high-flow intake and aftermarket muffler - I could care less about the names used to describe either. V&H already told me via email the you can use the V&H muffler choice for ANY aftermarket muffler - "You will run the V&H slip on"
. V&H documentation clearly states ALL tune maps are for high-flow intake and ECM will trim trim as necessary:
"All FP3 maps are dyno tuned for high flow air intakes. If you have a stock intake, flash the map for your exhaust with high flow air intake – the ECU will trim the map automatically as you ride."
< Does V&H imply open-loop, closed-loop, or both?
I am NOT on board with the so-called "Auto-Tune" feature anyhow. While the device may be able to tune for a very specific condition it will only be good at the ambient conditions at that time. If we run the so-called "Auto Tune" on a cold day at sea level and then ride a hot day up in the mountains what happens then? All the AFR map tables will be fine during closed-loop riding (they are not used) but may be far too rich during open-loop riding. Without closed-loop wide-band O2 sensors it is mediocre at best, which is why V&H DOES offer such a system as an add-on to FP3.
How many riders have run the so-called Auto-Tune in the winter and then run it again in the summer and got the exact same map results? My guess is nobody has done this as a test and, if they did, the maps are quite different. Every 5C/9F requires a 1% change in AFR and without closed-loop wide-band O2 sensors there is no way to make this happen. Of course the IAT sensor helps but I doubt it is enough to get it where it needs to be.
For example, my Twin Cam Road King was dyno tuned on a cool day at sea level here in CLT and when I rode up high in the mountains on a hot day it was so rich it started to misfire. Once I got back down to sea level it ran great again.
I have not seen even ONE dyno sheet for FP3 for different ambient conditions, with or without Auto-Tune. In fact, I have not seen even ONE dyno sheet for FP3 at all. All the real dyno tuners I have conversed with say it is junk and not to bother as it leaves far too much on the table. While I DO believe them I am NOT looking for optimal tune - Just something better than stock to ensure I am not too lean during WOT.
All I want is a map that is better than stock - I am not trying to win a Dyno War...