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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Slow Superlow - Right now the temp is fairly hot.... in the 90s. today will be in the 80s.
I have a pair of Royal Enfield, 500 and 535 cc singles. They can do 15w50 or 20w50 gets used a lot. I'm thinking the lower viscosity at startup shouldn't be a problem.
 

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2016 Harley-Davidson Street 750 in Sunglo Velocity Red
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Check your owners manual. I seem to recall that it lists two or three different oil viscosities that are ok to use in different temperature ranges.
 

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Here at pour me a quart and blow it up to show it's not. Not about to happen. I will explain away the oil fallacy about the alphabet soup of letters on the can, and 4 of the same model brand. Due to being totaled, testing is one, car turning left in front of me is 2, the other traded in is 3, and now the daily driver is 4.

I had the opportunity to break-in 4 bikes, 2 at book, 2 at some site to say; beat it right out of the gate. The 2 that were redlined out of the crate showed not a puff of smoke, but would slowly drained the crankcase before it's 3,000mi oil change. Meaning, no oil in the site glass. The 2 that were broken right out of the crate [like the other 2], never exceeded it's initial 2-stage break-in RPM Limits. The oil in the site glass never dropped upon it 3k oil change.

Out of the 4 bikes, once the oil that came with the bike was replaced at said interval, it was always 2qts of [45yr old give or take] straight 50w racing, and 2qts of whatever was around for the cars. So say straight 30w being one with 10w30, 10w40, syn, non-syn.

Could tell the oil was so thick, I would roll down the driveway backward in gear. It would be nice and slow all fresh and new. Once it had a few miles on it, it would roll back like i was running straight 10w30. Oil light went out just as fast with or without the heavy weight.

Conclusion:
I've never seen a cleaner oil filter pleat when I cut open the filter looking for crankcase/rod insert brass or aluminum chips. This last and for every other new bike I buy, it's broken in by the book, and all this oil I still have leftover back in the old days is not about to damage a new engine.

Alphabet soup from the SAE can go shove it up thee.
 

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2016 Harley-Davidson Street 750 in Sunglo Velocity Red
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The manual seems to be OK but not thrilled with 15w40, so I really don't see the problem with 15w50.

Here is what I found in the manual for my 2016 XG750:

If necessary and H-D 360 is not available, add oil certified for diesel engines. Acceptable designations include: CH-4, CI-4 and CJ-4. The preferred viscosities, in descending order are: 20W50, 15W40 and 10W40.
At the first opportunity, see an authorized dealer to change back to 100 percent Harley-Davidson oil.
Table 1. Recommended Engine Oils
TYPE​
VISCOSITY​
RATING​
LOWEST AMBIENT TEMPERATURE​
COLD WEATHER STARTS BELOW
50 °F (10 °C)​
Screamin' Eagle SYN3 Full Synthetic Motorcycle LubricantSAE 20W50HD 360Above 30 °F (-1 °C)Excellent
Genuine Harley-Davidson H-D 360 Motorcycle OilSAE 20W50HD 360Above 4 °C (40 °F)Good
Genuine Harley-Davidson H-D 360 Motorcycle OilSAE 10W40HD 360Below 4 °C (40 °F)Excellent
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I believe I'll use the 15w50.

"At the first opportunity, see an authorized dealer to change back to 100 percent Harley-Davidson oil." It's this type of statements that make them sound like children.

Ducati's official oil is Shell. There is no Ducati oil.
PugslyCat - I got this from my PDF manual:

Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Number
 

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2016 Harley-Davidson Street 750 in Sunglo Velocity Red
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Yea, the online PDF is where I copied my information from. I thought about clipping the bit about changing back to H-D oil as that's just stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"I thought about clipping the bit about changing back to H-D oil as that's just stupid."
First, there was Honda oil, joined by Yamalube. Then there's Suzuki oil. The idea of HD oil is nothing new. Let the fans do what they gotta do!
I've used Yamalube in my Royal Enfield-s. Just so it's good oil.
 
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