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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2015 Street XG750 and love everything about it.......except the Rear Brake Lever. As many of you have commented that in order to engage the Rear Brake, your ankle would have to be double jointed. I am trying to remedy this problem.

The 2016 Street XG 750 has a different Rear Brake Lever (Weldment Lever Assembly Part #50600171 ) and is the correct angle, however will not mount to a 2015. You would need to replace EVERYTHING from the Brake Lever Assembly to the Caliper in order for it to work. +/- over a thousand dollars. Not going to happen!

In one post an owner replaced the adjusting eye bolt with a longer one giving more upward travel. Harley Davidson does not list the size of this bolt. They only list the entire assembly. In order to get this eye bolt out you have to completely remove the assembly and the entire exhaust........

Does anyone know the size of this bolt? RH or LH, thread type, etc? I can not find an aftermarket Brake Lever Assembly that raises the pedal approximately 2 inches like the 2016.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for such a long post.
 

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The 2016 Street XG 750 has a different Rear Brake Lever (Weldment Lever Assembly Part #50600171 ) and is the correct angle, however will not mount to a 2015. You would need to replace EVERYTHING from the Brake Lever Assembly to the Caliper in order for it to work. +/- over a thousand dollars. Not going to happen!
^^ I agree^^

I also looked into this and, yes, you have to replace EVERYTHING, not just as simple as swapping out the bracket.

The "top" picture is the 2015 brake set up, and the "lower" picture is the 2016 brake set up. Notice the new rear brake cylinder arrangement. You'd need to replace everything from the pedal, right back to the calipers! Way too costly! Probably cheaper in the long run to just trade the bike in on a newer one!


 

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Whatever Bolt you use, Make sure its at least a Grade 8 or higher. The lower number bolts are weaker. You don't want it bending or breaking
 

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I have been in contact with Debra at Harley Davidson Customer Care. She said upfront that she was not a *technical* person but she did a ton of research and these are the dimensions that she came up with. I apologize for my crude drawing.

M6 x 1, she was not sure LH or RH Thread
48mm Overall Length
36mm From Center of Hole
6mm Hole Diameter
21mm Thread Length
 

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While how the controls feel to individual riders is different for each person this is something I didn't experience before tearing down my 750 for my chopper build project. One piece of advice I'd suggest is just talking with the service manager at your H-D dealer because they might have suggestions short of replacement for improving the situation. They might not but they're the first people I'd ask for assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just a little history on myself. I am not a beginner rider. I have been riding for over 40 years. While I was a Police Office I spent several years as a Wheel Officer riding Kawasaki's and Harley Davidson's. I have owned over 20 bikes.

When I purchased this bike it was under recall so I could not test drive it. I rode another 2015 and the brakes were fine. After I picked the bike up, I immediately noticed the brake problem. I could not bend my foot enough to engage the rear brake. I took the bike back the following day and talked with the Service Manager. They bled the brakes and adjusted the rod all the way. There was no difference......

When I spoke with the Service Manager he said that they had done all they could do and that I really didn't need the rear brake for stopping I should be using the front brake I call BullSh*t. The General Manager said I could always trade it in for a 2016. Riiiiight. After I found the post on replacing the Eye Bolt I again talked with the Service Manager. They wanted to charge me a couple hundred bucks to take it apart. They would not give me a price break on service to fix a problem that Harley obviously knew about or they would not have changed the 2016.

To be totally honest I have tried every brake pedal on every 2015 Street 750 I have found and none have the travel to engage that my bike does. I plan on breaking down my Brake Pedal Assembly this weekend and replacing the Eye Bolt. Maybe it will fix the problem, maybe not. But my Dad always taught to try the cheapest solution first. If this doesn't work I don't know what I will do. Maybe replace the pads as well. I won't be spending a thousand dollars to replace the entire Braking system.
 

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ive seen a mod where they changed the angle. basic as cut it and change the angle so the pedal sits higher. re weld it so the brake sits higher. if I was going to do this id use tig weld much cleaner.
I have cut down few things on this bike to mod it eg... mirrors and horn... don't pay heaps for a five dollar weld. I know for some ppl they cant weld but don't waste your money on parts that can be changed easy. for same result
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok after trying to find a longer LH Eye Bolt with Heim Joint it does not exist. So I went to my local Hot Rod Shop and he made me a longer turnbuckle approximately 7/8" longer. Received it today. Spray painted it black, just waiting for it to dry then I will test fit it on.

Just a few disassembly notes: I first loosened the two bolts that support the right foot control. One bolt will come all the way out the other will not because of the exhaust. With the foot control loose I was able to put place a screwdriver on the e-clip that holds the pin that runs through the eye bolt. Tapped the e-clip and pulled it off. Then I unscrewed both the turnbuckle and eye bolt off of the rear brake Master Cylinder. I then trimmed the rubber off of the bottom of the foot peg to give me more clearance to raise the pedal. I may have to also grind some of the metal on the brake pedal bar to also allow it to move further up.

I should know if this is going to work on my Street XG750 in an hour or so. Wish me luck!
 

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Success! If I had to do it over again I wouldn't have quite gone 7/8" over original. It was a tight fit but it is 1000% better than how it was. Thanks again to all of you in the Street Forum for your input.
 

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I'm attempting to make a rod end (eye bolt) with a longer threaded portion. Pain in the butt since it's left hand thread.
Ordered a female rod end and some left hand thread threaded rod. So I'll need to cut the threaded rod to good length very cleanly, so it will screw in.
I don't really understand how to remove the turnbuckle though. I've had the clevis and rod end off, but the turnbuckle seems to be attached to the MC. No nut to loosen or anything.
Anyway, gonna mess with the rod end first, if that doesn't work maybe look further into the turnbuckle solution vinman0725 described.
Also I have a spare Street brake pedal and am thinking of just cutting off the part your foot goes on and stacking it right on to my existing one. Drill a couple holes so it's held on by screws.
 

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I have been in contact with Debra at Harley Davidson Customer Care. She said upfront that she was not a *technical* person but she did a ton of research and these are the dimensions that she came up with. I apologize for my crude drawing.

M6 x 1, she was not sure LH or RH Thread
48mm Overall Length
36mm From Center of Hole
6mm Hole Diameter
21mm Thread Length
Are these the specs for the 2015's rod end?
Thx!
 

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There is a very simple fix. I pulled the pedal off notched the top, about a 2inch v, bent the pedal up and welded it up. Grind down weld, painted and now i have a useable rear brake.
The new position put my toes on the pedal in normal riding position. Slight forward push and rear brake engages with foot still on peg. No more boot heel.
 

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I am on the same journey as others regarding the rare break pedal of 2015.

I bought latest 2018 Harley break pedal lever Part Number 50600171A.

I took out my old break pedal and replaced it with new lever. It fits fine but it does not help at all.

Although from the look I thought new pedal will solve my issue and it will move up (as there seems to be more space under the foot peg to move lever upward) but my turnbuckle is just too short to move lever up. Back to square one.

So the actual problem now is to find a longer turnbuckle. I just don't even know where to start looking for.

Easier might be to find a welder to weld. I do not own welding kit nor aware of how to do it.
 
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