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Bike sat about 6 months after battery died. Bought a new battery drained tank put new gas in it. Issue I'm having is I'll turn the key to on and cluster lights up (no noise from fuel pump) then I'll switch the key to ignition so I can start it but then the whole light cluster shuts off. I've looked at the fuses beside the battery but none of them are burnt. Unless I'm overlooking the fuse
 

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"Loose Nut" from Bandera, Texas
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Have you confirmed the new battery is fully charged? Sounds like a low battery. Doesn't take much power for a few lights to come on. New batteries, depending on which one you bought, don't come fully charged and must be top off before use. Also some new fully charged batteries have sat on self and lost some charge. What voltage is the battery with key off?
 

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Have you confirmed the new battery is fully charged? Sounds like a low battery. Doesn't take much power for a few lights to come on. New batteries, depending on which one you bought, don't come fully charged and must be top off before use. Also some new fully charged batteries have sat on self and lost some charge. What voltage is the battery with key off?
Factory activated batteries are about 85% charged when you get your hands on it. I recommend NOCO chargers and boosters.
I ran a 12v utility socket from the battery to my handlebars. I use a Noco 12v male plug to charge the battery on the handlebar.
What 'new' battery do you have? Is it lead/acid? Li-ion? AGM... pre-sealed, or did you add acid and seal it yourself?

My charging 12v socket in a pic:
 

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Have to look at the date on the battery. Don't know if I want a battery that low and a 4 month sitter, let alone a week.

1. Fully charged battery - That puppy is going to need formula to charge it. So say it was charged for that rated hours on the charger, it now sits off the the charger in a static setting, meaning, nothing attached to is so you know it's static reading. Statically, the battery reads ideal numbers that say on the digital voltmeter, 12.8v. That says fully charged. That's surface voltage, and ready for service.

2. Starter motor - This is a way for this jobber to shows us the 'Load' of the battery. This is the auto store load tester without taking the battery and know the same answer at the starter motor. This is now a watch and see if the battery has volts. Volts means "PUSH." So the read at the meter, the push of the starter, this sees if there is any PUSH to turn the motor over. By looking at the voltage drop, Ideal minimum is instant drop to 11.1v, then with a blink of an eye you caught that number, it now goes back to its static number. Anything below 11v, or drops below its beginning static number, is a prorated or full money back, it won't take, nor hole PUSH at full charge, which you did, which you showed the load and static numbers on the cell phone.

3. Charging system - This is how fast you inspect the charging loop by keeping the meter on the battery, eyes on the numbers, it's fast at the digit. We are at the next number that pops up is the voltage read at idle. So dash speed wise is wait for it, but at the battery read, watch how fast that number kicks in; it goes:
a. Static read is 12.8v.
b. Load read is 11.1v... and remember the lowest number read, it goes away quick.
c. Recovery read is 12.8v... and this too goes away quick.
d. Voltage loop read is 14.2v at idle.

Choose any bike, this is how to read PUSH out of a battery.
 
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