Removing the hand controls requires moderate mechanical ability and getting the fixed L/H grip off is a bit tough as it is attached with an adhesive. Removal of the handle bars themselves is easy (4 bolts). Any 7/8" bars (stock diameter) will work but I highly recommend using bars with a knurled center that goes under the clamp to help prevent any rotation (it's better than just the clamp blocks on smooth tube). Dime City has drag bars but they are made in Taiwan and do not have the knurled center section that goes under the clamp block. I always recommend Made in the USA but that's a company policy. The cables are technically shorter for drag bars as is the brake line and brake light wiring but sometimes isn't noticable. For a "purest" they woul go with shorter brake line, throttle and clutch cables (and hide the excess wiring under the tank which requires tank removal that is even more work).Hi all,
I was thinking of putting drag bars on my Street 500. I was wondering if anyone else has done so. If so was it difficult or a simple swap of bars. I was wondering if the cables would need to be changed.
Thanks,
Margaret
A friend of mine from Bangalore in India got this done to his street. I'll try getting a picture from him to post it here. He find the Street even more agile after getting the drag bar handle fitted.Hi all,
I was thinking of putting drag bars on my Street 500. I was wondering if anyone else has done so. If so was it difficult or a simple swap of bars. I was wondering if the cables would need to be changed.
Thanks,
Margaret
I put a reduced Handle bar on my 750 and the cables had to be changed to longer cables.Hi all,
I was thinking of putting drag bars on my Street 500. I was wondering if anyone else has done so. If so was it difficult or a simple swap of bars. I was wondering if the cables would need to be changed.
Thanks,
Margaret
That's interesting and unexpected. Common logic would be that the closer the controls are to the triple tree to the shorter the cables, electrical, and brake line would be. I know for the mini-ape hangers with a 12" rise we require 8" longer everything. While there is some slack with the brake light wiring I'm wondering what exactly you had to change. Thottle cables, clutch cable, front brake line and perhaps the brake light wiring? All of these are potentially affected so what exactly needed to be longer (and by how much)?I put a reduced Handle bar on my 750 and the cables had to be changed to longer cables.
Well, if you have to change the cables that requires pulling the gas tank. Not that hard and the real trick relates to the clamps holding the cross-over fuel line. These need to be "popped" open by lifting the tab and then replaced with conventional (stainless steel) hose clamps on re-assembly. The fuel line to the engine is a quick disconnect and the wiring for the fuel pump has a disconnect under the tank you can reach. Of course drain the gas tank as much as possible before removal and try to capture the gasoline left when you remove the cross-over line. With that said go for it. It's not that hard and figuring out how to release the hose clamps was our biggest challenge because those are installed with special tools by Harley. Once we figured that out it was relatively easy. The same type of hose clamps are used on the radiator hoses as well.StoneFree,
Thanks for the detailed instructions. I am very handy so I think this is well within my abilities. It is the knowledge that I am lacking. I have removed the left hand grip before on an old bike. And yes what a pain in the butt that is. I am really hoping that I can get away with out changing the cables. It may be worth the 20 or so bucks to give it a try. Oh and I did source some bars that are knurled, not sure where they are manufactured...
Thanks again
Are you just talking cause you like talking to me and know that I will say something funny in a heartbeat or are those serious questions that you are asking me??That's interesting and unexpected. Common logic would be that the closer the controls are to the triple tree to the shorter the cables, electrical, and brake line would be. I know for the mini-ape hangers with a 12" rise we require 8" longer everything. While there is some slack with the brake light wiring I'm wondering what exactly you had to change. Thottle cables, clutch cable, front brake line and perhaps the brake light wiring? All of these are potentially affected so what exactly needed to be longer (and by how much)?
I'm actually serious because I've not done what you had done. If possible ask the service advisor that was responsible for the work to find out. Perhaps they provided you with a shorter and not a longer cable(?). Who knows. Right now this work maybe beyond your limited experience but I don't see that being the case if you keep on making changes to your motorcycle yourself. You're going to learn the same way I did and everyone else does. I've just got a 45 year head start on you, that's all. There's an old saying that "It isn't hard once you know how to do it."Are you just talking cause you like talking to me and know that I will say something funny in a heartbeat or are those serious questions that you are asking me??
All that, that you said brake light wiring, throttle wiring, is over my head and way beyound my skill level and the reason why I paid a God awful amount for the stealership to do it for me, cause I did not want to be riding along and have the handbar come loose in my hand, but I think it was the clutch cable which may not even be what the orginal post was all about to begin with. Now if you really want answers, I will do my best to find the answer, I just know it was available as a after market.
Now dont let me find out that I really didnt need the longer cable, cause I will be madder than a live catfish in some hot oil.
I have the bill at home, I will look for it and then I will know exactly what they did and even the part number and get back with you.I'm actually serious because I've not done what you had done. If possible ask the service advisor that was responsible for the work to find out. Perhaps they provided you with a shorter and not a longer cable(?). Who knows. Right now this work maybe beyond your limited experience but I don't see that being the case if you keep on making changes to your motorcycle yourself. You're going to learn the same way I did and everyone else does. I've just got a 45 year head start on you, that's all. There's an old saying that "It isn't hard once you know how to do it."
Exactly...what Flamegirl said @StoneFree@StoneFree and @Beauty and the Beast,
I think that StoneFree may have misunderstood the reduced reach handlebars. The bars move the hand controls closer to the rider, essentially a longer pullback. So it is very possible that longer cabling was needed.
Thanks
Attached another picA friend of mine from Bangalore in India got this done to his street. I'll try getting a picture from him to post it here. He finds the Street even more agile after getting the drag bar handle fitted.Hi all,
I was thinking of putting drag bars on my Street 500. I was wondering if anyone else has done so. If so was it difficult or a simple swap of bars. I was wondering if the cables would need to be changed.
Thanks,
Margaret
I assume the stock cables, brake line, and electrical work for this change.I installed my drag bars today. They are 28" in length. I went with new grips that are more comfortable than the stock. It was a fairly easy mod to do. The cowling hides the cables well. I love the way the bike corners even more now.