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Hey all, first time posting here :) Good to meet you all.

I'll try and keep it brief..

Accidentally left my 2017 XG750 street on (in ignition) while fitting a new slip-on muffler, battery drained completely. Must have been pretty low to start with, It was probably about two hours in all. I hadn't tested it before. No problem, after much messing around trying to locate the battery behind all the cabling, I charged the battery, bike started again no problem. Exhaust works and sounds great, very happy with it.. Except now my engine check light remains lit, and I cant figure out why.

I have very limited experience in diagnosing problems, i've been riding for six years or so, this is my third bike, and my experience runs as far as changing / charging batteries, fitting new regulator / rectifiers, changing my own oil, replacing gear levers, all the minor newbie stuff.

I read on another forum (an old post) that after charging a battery from dead, the ECU has to 'recover' from recieving no power, and takes a few heat cycles to recognise all is in order and the check light goes out on its own. They didnt go into more detail than that, and nobody answered. I'm not sure what is meant by a heat cycle, or exactly how many times this is needed? I've taken the bike out twice and let it get hot to the point that the radiator kicks in, then let it cool again, but so far the light stays lit. Obviously the longer it stays lit, the more reluctant I am to ride it. There doesn't appear to be anything wrong, the bike runs and sounds great, im getting no leaks, no strange smells, no noticeable loss of power.

There are no mechanics open in my area, only mobile mechanics that are charging at least 2x the going rate due to our current situation, and its not exactly affordable right now. Being a key worker I need the bike to get to work or I face an almost two-hour commute..

Hoping someone can shed some light on this? Cheers for reading (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update: Third ride out, and the light went out on its own. All seems well, so far so good. Will leave this up in case anyone comes across the same issue.
 

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Only just saw your post - I am not quite sure why this should happen but it does - yes if the battery was 100% drained 'something' would need to reset. Had you got an FP3 or similar you could have seen and cleared the code straight away - not worth the expense though for this! But for your peace of mind - Everything should be fine again now ;)
 

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Only just saw your post - I am not quite sure why this should happen but it does - yes if the battery was 100% drained 'something' would need to reset. Had you got an FP3 or similar you could have seen and cleared the code straight away - not worth the expense though for this! But for your peace of mind - Everything should be fine again now ;)
I don't have a fuel pak 3 yet, after shelling out for a slip-on exhaust that may be next on the list. I do find it quite bizarre that something as simple as this isn't covered in the manual under 'Battery Charging', instead it tells you (of course) to go straight to a dealership if you see an engine check light. Cheers HD, who need money anyways, right?
 

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I don't have a fuel pak 3 yet, after shelling out for a slip-on exhaust that may be next on the list. I do find it quite bizarre that something as simple as this isn't covered in the manual under 'Battery Charging', instead it tells you (of course) to go straight to a dealership if you see an engine check light. Cheers HD, who need money anyways, right?
IMO I'd say get a new air intake first before the fp3, makes a bigger difference then
 
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