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Discussion Starter #1
Like many I am not particularly impressed with the foot control positioning (and that weird rear brake pedal) so I spoke to our local HD shop.
They suggested they have already modified one using the foot controls from a Street 750 which appears to fit fine.
Looks like it would move the controls about 2-3 inches forward which would make a World of difference for me. Never mind the rear brake pedal seems much better.

Any comments on that ? Probably not going to be cheap but right now I just need this fixed. It's spoiling an otherwise great bike for me.
 
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I would love to see some pics if possible, I have been constantly tinkering with mine and have done almost everything short of replacing or majorly modifying the controls themselves. I am also a taller rider at 6'3 and would love to see some sort of ACTUAL solution to this problem. Please keep us posted as I would love to see what you end doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just google some pics of the Street 750 to get an idea.
The frame is identical between the Street 750 and the Street rod and all mounting points are there. So it is a simple change you can easily do yourself if you are handy with a spanner. No need to bleed the brakes or anything like that - it's lust a slightly longer extension for the foot brake.
The brake pedal ends up about the position of the forward bend of the exhaust pipes, similar for the gear shift peg on the other side.

The biggest advantage for me is it fixes the acute angle between foot and lower leg quite dramatically - a position I can now hold without trouble for a long time. I'm shorter than you - and I have trouble - I can just imagine it must be close to impossible for you. Perhaps you should also consider having the seat raised by an inch or so.

You still get to keep the old controls so if you ever need to sell the bike and the new owner wants, it is a quick conversion back to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's taken a really long time for the parts to arrive. Harley does not keep much in the way of spares in this country.

Rear brake now actually usable and where it should be...

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It's still what you would call "mid controls" so the bike retains its feel. But the pegs have moved 2-3 inches forward for a more relaxed position. Pegs also no longer bump against your shins when stationary. Here the pegs from the Street have been fitted but you can also use the pegs from the Street Rod if you prefer. The R/H one will need a small grind (not a big job) if you want the brake pad a bit higher like shown above.

Installation is straight forward. Everything fits except the L/H bracket assembly. Here you need to drill one additional hole into the bracket to make it fit the frame. Not a big job.

At minimum you need to order the following parts:

41600190 Rod assembly rear brake.
50500489A Bracket Assembly.
50600164 Pad Brake pedal.
50600171A Brake lever assembly.
33600017A Gear shift lever.
50500186A Bracket assembly.

Everything else you need (including pegs) can be taken from the old fittings.

It's a worthwhile modification to the Steet Rod if you are struggling with the ergonomics of the existing controls in my opinion and pretty quick to do once you have the parts...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just to add:
The R/H peg is now also lower and at the same height as the L/H one. Your left leg position seems further from the exposed hot section of the rear cylinder so that little problem also gone.
Might have lost a bit of lean angle but I don't think it is a lot, if any...
 

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Thank you very much for posting your results, I am actually in the process or buying those foot controls from a used bike and will be installing them on my street rod, any specific steps to follow while installing?

Thanks again for the awesome info and pictures!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you very much for posting your results, I am actually in the process or buying those foot controls from a used bike and will be installing them on my street rod, any specific steps to follow while installing?

Thanks again for the awesome info and pictures!
The only specific step I can think of is to remove the old controls and brackets before you fit the new ones... ;)
It's a really quick and simple job to charge - you will need a bike lift or some other method to keep the bike upright when you do the left hand side of course.
The only complication, as mentioned, is that you need to drill a hole in the left hand bracket. There are three holes but only two line up with the frame. I used the time honored method of a bit of grease around the hole in the frame where the new hole needs to go, then loosely fit the frame and remove - now you have a nice grease ring where the new hole needs to go.

Have a bit of miles on the Rod with the new controls - really transformed this bike which was a little awkward for me to a pleasant, easy ride. I was going to get rid of it but now it actually fits in well with my collection. I also installed a SE air filter, FP3 tuner and modified the stock muffler - removing the entire first muffler stage, leaving only the short second stage (final stage before exit). It's pretty free flowing and sounds nice without being annoying. Vance and Hines customized the map for me (nice service !) as the standard maps don't cater for a free flow air filter.
While my other bikes have stage 1 and stage 2 mods - I was really surprised just how much the Street Rod wakes up with just a stage 1 and the FP3 tune. This thing really goes now and the iffy throttle response it had from new is completely sorted out. Not sure what the real top speed is, I took it briefly to just under 200Km/h indicated in 4th - hitting the 9500 rev limit pretty quickly. Not shabby at all. My stage 2 103" Fat Bob can't do that (might need more aggressive cams...).
 

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Thank you for sharing your mods to the street rod, may I ask if you just installed the stock kickstand back with the new street750 assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes you use the old jiffy stand and related parts - same part numbers between the two bikes. Simple swap. Don't forget the jiffy stand sensor when you put things back - goes in same place as before (if your bike has the jiffy stand sensor fitted).
 
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