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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok so I've got my '15 750. Really haven't worked on the engine other than oil changes as needed. Having said that, I was on the bike going to work (on the third anniversary of buying it no less..) when I lost all power on the interstate/highway.

Well I pull over and see what looks like a bolt sticking through the belt cover. My Heart sinks..Oh and the belt is totally shreaded might I add.

So I take the two bottom bolts that hold that cover on, and the pulley and washers fall out. I had to tap on the screw head to get it out. I've added photos, but that bolt snapped within the output drive shaft. I'm at a loss on how this could happen - any thoughts out there?

Anyway, that bolt is part number 10200241 and holds pulley part 35000111 which is the pulley to the output shaft which is 35600050 - in case anyone is curious on where this is at. At this point, has 38k miles, I doubt Harley is going to help me. I'm considering reaching out to them but I have little faith, seeing as it took years to acknowledge the brake issues. Which might I add, I'm on my third set of calipers.

Since I've never pulled that pulley out before, I'm not sure what the threads are supposed to be like in the output shaft. I'm sure I can use a bolt extractor to get it out, but how much threading is supposed to hold this bolt in? does it go from the end of the shaft, all the way down? I don't feel threads in the section where the bolt is missing. Or is that shaft ruined and need to be replaced, which is the worst case scenario.. that's a lot of work from what I can see right now.

Any help or input would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update - bolt came out, now to see if the splines can be filed at the end so that the pulley can get on. This bike is going to get an overhaul with a lot of aftermarket stuff from brakes/lines to rotate and anything else. Parts breaking and failing are unacceptable and Harley doesn't seem to care. Shame, this is a great platform.
 

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Wow man, bummer. I wish I could help. Are those parts rusted? It is hard for me to see in the pics. It is snowing here so I am going to do an inspection of that area on my 500. You got a manual?
 

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Update - bolt came out, now to see if the splines can be filed at the end so that the pulley can get on. This bike is going to get an overhaul with a lot of aftermarket stuff from brakes/lines to rotate and anything else. Parts breaking and failing are unacceptable and Harley doesn't seem to care. Shame, this is a great platform.
You did well to get the end of the bolt out!

The mainshaft is case hardened, that is the exterior of it has been treated to toughen it by infusing it with carbon. Underneath this hardening is the normal form of whatever steel it was made from. The depth of case hardening depends on many factors 1.5mm is not unknown, though this may not be the case with this particular shaft. All the above is saying is reclaiming the splines may well be a pain in the butt, though you will get there (eventually).

With the bolt that sheared you have two optoins, buy a replacement from HD, or buy a Stainless Steel replacement. The bolt is M12 thread, measure it for length and buy one ensuring it is made out of A2 Stainless Steel. Ebay sell this type of bolt, it will be cheaper and of better quality than the HD part.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Phil13, I agree, not a HD bolt. it'll be a Stainless Steel replacement. Any part or item I've worked on with this bike has had stainless replacements. I realize this is a 'budget bike' but I'd happily had paid 200-300 more to have a lot of this already stainless. Also, I'm going to measure the interior of the drive shaft where that bolt goes for historical reasons in case anyone else has to do a bolt extraction. I got lucky and didn't go into the shaft, but someone else might not be so lucky. I've found multiple threads with similar problems of the pully retention bolt breaking etc. Also, yes those splines are going to take a while, I may use a Dremel with a small stone to work it next.

Clavinavi, there are two rusted bolts in that area, both on the forward controls, BOTH are the original Harley mounting bolts from the original mid controls. I'm going to order stainless and replace them. I'll likely get a new sprocket cover since that one now has a nice bolt hole.. I'd send the original back to Harley just to prove a point if I thought I wouldn't get into any trouble.. oh and the retaining bolt and belt.

Still, it's nice the acknowledge the brake issues and started a recall. Hope I can get the bike into running shape and get it up there before they stop.
 

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This exact problem happened to my '15 500 at around 2200 miles. I opted to get an Harley replacement bolt but did wonder if a Home Depot grade 10 bolt would have been better quality. These bolts shouldn't be breaking.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Harley Dealer techs told me humidity likely caused the break and I could pay for diagnostics.

Seriously?

No offer to ask if it resulted in further damages, injuries etc. I guess the belt wrapping up and shredding while pulley coming apart isn't a big deal to them.

I hope to locate all those this happened to so it's documented and can be addressed and fixed.

Hopefully no one has been hurt from this.

Meantime, it's 180+ for a new belt. It's the 166t belt.
 
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I got my belt off eBay for under $70. It was basically new.

It looks like yours actually wore through the plastic cover as well. Mine didn't make it that far but did chew up the inside of the cover.

Humidity? Are they suggesting the belt tightened up from humidity and put stress on the sprocket causing the bolt to shear in half?
 

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I did some more research and found this thread:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/47203-broken-bolts-on-drive-sprocket-2.html

It sounds like the general consensus on that thread is the bolt can back out from vibration, the sprocket gets loose, and then the bolt snaps.

I can confirm there was not loctite on the broken bolt I took out. The broken end came out easily. I almost could have just used a magnet.

Anyway, I believe I have solved this. I have two FSMs, with one being an earlier revision. The older version is 99611-15 and is copyright 2013 vs the new version of 99611-15B with copyright 2014. The newer version shows both a flat washer and spring washer being installed. See attached pictures.

Edit: the parts manual I have must be an older one as it also only shows a single washer with a part # 10300056. I don't recall this being a cupped washer, but flat?

Second Edit: I found a newer parts manual. The bolt has a revised part number: 10200241A. The first washer is the same part number between both revisions - 10300056. The spring washer is added to the second revision - 12300029

I'm going to loosen the belt this weekend, get a flat washer and spring washer, and reinstall that sprocket. Also I'm going to use blue loctite.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
They we're saying it weakened the bolt as well. I'd had rather been told we don't know how this could have happened then that response.

I almost want to do a chain conversion at this point. Mainly to open up to new rims, style etc. A Ducati multistrada sprocket fits that output shaft. That and a retune could provide some fun.

Anyway I may just get a used belt, feels weird using a used belt just due to not knowing it's stress in past. Either way I'm going to be using loctite as well, the factory bolt didn't have any. - those bolts on fender had enough red to last forever though- I'll keep this updated as it progresses
 
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What are you going to use to hold the sprocket while you torque the bolt down? I used a rubber strap wrench but the sprocket cut more than half way through the rubber. I'm thinking a leather strap wrench? Or a generic sprocket holder of some kind?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I'm thinking a torque gun, but when I get it on I'll take notes and respond. I did get the output shaft splines fixed.
 

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I ordered a sprocket holder from Amazon that looks like vice grips. And concave m12 spring washers. I’ll be adding the washer and loctite this weekend and will also update this thread with some pics.

I routinely ride a road with a marked 80mph speed limit. I usually go 70-75 but have to pass sometimes. The drive system can’t be falling apart while I’m riding.
 

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I did some more research and found this thread:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/47203-broken-bolts-on-drive-sprocket-2.html

It sounds like the general consensus on that thread is the bolt can back out from vibration, the sprocket gets loose, and then the bolt snaps.

I can confirm there was not loctite on the broken bolt I took out. The broken end came out easily. I almost could have just used a magnet.

Anyway, I believe I have solved this. I have two FSMs, with one being an earlier revision. The older version is 99611-15 and is copyright 2013 vs the new version of 99611-15B with copyright 2014. The newer version shows both a flat washer and spring washer being installed. See attached pictures.

Edit: the parts manual I have must be an older one as it also only shows a single washer with a part # 10300056. I don't recall this being a cupped washer, but flat?

Second Edit: I found a newer parts manual. The bolt has a revised part number: 10200241A. The first washer is the same part number between both revisions - 10300056. The spring washer is added to the second revision - 12300029

I'm going to loosen the belt this weekend, get a flat washer and spring washer, and reinstall that sprocket. Also I'm going to use blue loctite.

This would be my question is t caused by the bolt coming loose. It that case a mild loctite might be called for. I would not go to a harder bolt . It it breaks off you will never get it drilled to use an ez out.
When you inspect it look at bolt threads if they are not crisp and clean replace with the same grade bolt. In most cases replacing a factory bolt with harder ones does not end well in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I may make a holder that has bolts that match up to the holes on the pulley with a handle. If it works I'll update. New belt in hand, bolt ordered. I'm redoing brakes and going to pull valve covers and check valves since I'm at this amount of mileage anyway.

I did invest in a tire alignment tool and belt gauge to make sure it's on just right. The techs and parts group at this dealership were stunned to see those photos.

Just to find a reasonably priced battery that actually fits.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So new belt on, sprocket is back on and 10 miles in. First ride was three miles, went well. Second ride 300 feet. I hear a clunk. Shut it off pushed back, clunking all the way. Had to re torque the sprocket. I have a digital torque gauge so not like I could read it wrong. So far no issues, will check it when I get home. So, anyone who does this stay near home and check torque after first few miles and probably after first ten, then 50 and should be good. I did end up with another Harley bolt.

Strangly, it's not powder coat black but a bright shiny color. Wonder if they changed the bolt up. Did check with wheel alignment tool and belt tension gauge, everything is within spec. I hope this helps any one who has to do this in future.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well.. sad to say it snapped again today. I talked to the dealer and after some negotiation they have gotten me a new bike at same payment of my 750. I loved my 750, but this happening again, and the fact the tire was changed yesterday and everything torque checked by them leads me to believe it's a design issue. I'll miss my street but it's time to move on. Anyone needs information related to the street I'll have my email continue forwarding so I can help.

Good luck fellow riders, enjoy the ride and stay safe!!
 

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Confirmed this bolt works as a replacement. Saw all these threads about bolts backing out or snapping so I figured I’d replace mine as preventative maintenance. Didn’t seem to have any loctite on the original and the end of the bolt had white corrosion on it.
 

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