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CycleWorld magazine just tested the Street 750 and here are their numbers: Using our VBox data logger, we measured the Street 750’s acceleration and braking. It’s quick. The Street hits 60 mph in 4.6 seconds, and streaks though the quarter-mile in an impressive 13.69 seconds at 93.8 mph. The Star Bolt, for the record, does the quarter in 13.78 sec. at 93.5 mph, whereas Honda’s NC700X clocks in at 13.86/94.2. But how does the Street compare with the 883 Iron? The Street squashes that Sportster, which has a best pass of 14.53/90.8 mph. 2015 Harley-Davidson Street 750- First Ride Review- Photos- Dyno- Specs
 

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CycleWorld magazine just tested the Street 750 and here are their numbers: Using our VBox data logger, we measured the Street 750’s acceleration and braking. It’s quick. The Street hits 60 mph in 4.6 seconds, and streaks though the quarter-mile in an impressive 13.69 seconds at 93.8 mph. The Star Bolt, for the record, does the quarter in 13.78 sec. at 93.5 mph, whereas Honda’s NC700X clocks in at 13.86/94.2. But how does the Street compare with the 883 Iron? The Street squashes that Sportster, which has a best pass of 14.53/90.8 mph. 2015 Harley-Davidson Street 750- First Ride Review- Photos- Dyno- Specs
thanks for posting that. good to see this info, numbers look good to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
CycleWorld magazine just tested the Street 750 and here are their numbers: Using our VBox data logger, we measured the Street 750’s acceleration and braking. It’s quick. The Street hits 60 mph in 4.6 seconds, and streaks though the quarter-mile in an impressive 13.69 seconds at 93.8 mph. The Star Bolt, for the record, does the quarter in 13.78 sec. at 93.5 mph, whereas Honda’s NC700X clocks in at 13.86/94.2. But how does the Street compare with the 883 Iron? The Street squashes that Sportster, which has a best pass of 14.53/90.8 mph. 2015 Harley-Davidson Street 750- First Ride Review- Photos- Dyno- Specs
yea it is pretty awesome news

those weight savings really paid off

and this 750 seems like a good motor
 

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I wonder if one can bore it to 800 cc and coax as much power out of it as a BMW F800GT makes? That is my own benchmark for a light two cylinder bike. Before you laugh, for the price difference between a Street 500 and an F800, I can buy a big bore kit, a lot of head work, cams and the suspension and wheels I want and not overspend what a stock F800 costs.
 

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I wonder if one can bore it to 800 cc and coax as much power out of it as a BMW F800GT makes? That is my own benchmark for a light two cylinder bike. Before you laugh, for the price difference between a Street 500 and an F800, I can buy a big bore kit, a lot of head work, cams and the suspension and wheels I want and not overspend what a stock F800 costs.

GS or GT?

Would it not be cheaper and less work to start with a Street 750 and go from there?
 

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GS or GT?

Would it not be cheaper and less work to start with a Street 750 and go from there?
No. The 500 is a grand less money than the 750. From there you are going to add a big bore kit, cams, head work, etc. The only difference between the 500 and 750 are parts you are going to toss out to make it an 800 or maybe a 900 if there are kits for that displacement.

I am referring to the GT. That is my benchmark for simple versatile two cylinder street bikes, what you buy when practical considerations outweigh image.
 

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can you really get a bore kit, cams, and some sort of head work for $1000?
You still don't get it. Sigh. If the plan is to build a big bore version of a Street, say an 800 cc or 900 cc version, it is less costly to start this project with a 500 that it is to start the project with a 750. Both the 500 and 750 are mechanically identical other than cylinder bore. The end product will be an 800 let's say, so why start with the more expensive 750 when you are going to throw away the cylinders, pistons and rings anyway? Start with the cheaper 500 and save yourself a grand up front. Does that make sense now?
 

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You still don't get it. Sigh. If the plan is to build a big bore version of a Street, say an 800 cc or 900 cc version, it is less costly to start this project with a 500 that it is to start the project with a 750. Both the 500 and 750 are mechanically identical other than cylinder bore. The end product will be an 800 let's say, so why start with the more expensive 750 when you are going to throw away the cylinders, pistons and rings anyway? Start with the cheaper 500 and save yourself a grand up front. Does that make sense now?
Sure sounds like the most cost effective and smarter way to go about getting more CC's in the end. Thanks for pointing that out
 
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