This is my first fuel injected bike so I am not sure if this is standard or if something is wrong with my bike. I feel as though there is a problem though. So when I fire up the bike it starts and if I am not holding in the ignition switch for an extra 5-10 seconds it will just stall. In my car with the push button start I press once don't hold in and it goes. I feel its odd that it just stalls out after firing. Is not enough fuel transferring with the fuel injection that is causing this issue?
Ignition
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I am a little confuse, so you turn the the key in the ignition, and then the bike starts when you press the start button. Is that what you are calling the ignition? are you holding the clutch in if it not in N. I am not sure what it is that you are saying is happening...sorry
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The next time you go to start up the bike wait and listen for a short solenoid sound as soon as you move the run switch to on. As soon as the stop then hit starter. It should fire up right away. When its really cold like 38f. It will take a lot cranks. Try not to ride the starter. If you dont hear that sound before cranking then contact the dealership.
So I turn in the key then slide the switch, hear the fuel, push the button after it finishes and it starts. If I let go of it as soon as it starts it shuts right off. So I have to hold it in for an extended time to let it almost cycle a new amount of fuel to the direct supply where it will continue to run.
Did you fix the problem?
I'm actually having the exact same problem.
I brought it to dealer to check twice, but they couldn't find any problem.
It was about 5 seconds 2 months ago, now it takes more than 10 seconds to start, and I HAVE to squeeze the throttle.
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Sounds like a bad fuel pump to me or could be water in with the gas a clogged fuel line or a bad battery its hard to say.
you didn't put gasoline with methanol in did you that it with eat up the fuel pump seals and other problems i'm sure
I think you have a bad fuel pump.
you didn't put gasoline with methanol in did you that it with eat up the fuel pump seals and other problems i'm sure
I think you have a bad fuel pump.
My bike has been away for the winter though I did go riding the other day. I could've held the start in longer out of habit but it did not do it this time. I have also been sick as a dog and don't really remember. Hopefully in a couple weeks I will be riding more and I will find out.
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Cycle your ignition switch 3 or 4 times,let the fuel pump run its cycle each time. You probably have air in your fuel system, this will purge the unwanted air
FI is as bulletproof as a car's FI system. You have to ask yourself if once it warms up, does it then fire right off, yes or no?
Then it's not the FI system, but trying to light off gas under cold conditions.
A full tune on an FI bike is check compression, set valve clearance [if applies] change plugs, set throttle body sync [if applies], change air cleaner. So when were the plugs changed last?
The breakdown of jobbers in the FI loop, better know as the "can't be the..." if we are talking instant start when warm.
Fuel pump - Not when you can WOT and bury the speedo needle, let alone starting pressure.
Ignition system - Not when you are riding it, restarting it all warmed up.
Sensor telemetry- Not when there are zero codes on the dash.
Battery - Not the charging system either, with the starter held longer and can PUSH volts out the battery, plus seeing that the battery can take a charge and replenish PUSH better known as volts.
WATT- Not the wire harness as it will show 3 variables if a wire is down via codes.
Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
Then it's not the FI system, but trying to light off gas under cold conditions.
A full tune on an FI bike is check compression, set valve clearance [if applies] change plugs, set throttle body sync [if applies], change air cleaner. So when were the plugs changed last?
The breakdown of jobbers in the FI loop, better know as the "can't be the..." if we are talking instant start when warm.
Fuel pump - Not when you can WOT and bury the speedo needle, let alone starting pressure.
Ignition system - Not when you are riding it, restarting it all warmed up.
Sensor telemetry- Not when there are zero codes on the dash.
Battery - Not the charging system either, with the starter held longer and can PUSH volts out the battery, plus seeing that the battery can take a charge and replenish PUSH better known as volts.
WATT- Not the wire harness as it will show 3 variables if a wire is down via codes.
Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
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