[gregamart]

🗯 just take apart the throttle handlebar control and completely drown it with WD40🗯. Idk that I want to take anything apart. Can I just hit it with some WD-40 around it? I am book smart. I am not mechanically inclined whatsoever.

 

[gregamart]

If it's just popping the housing off like the way this guy is doing, then maybe that wouldn't be too difficult. What do you think?

The rest of the video really isn't applicable, but if it's just unscrewing the top of the housing, then I might be game. I'd just spray in there with WD-40 I'm assuming.

 

[PugslyCat]

Idk that I want to take anything apart. Can I just hit it with some WD-40 around it?

I think that trying to do this without opening the clamshell will just make a mess of things and not allow the WD-40 to get into where it needs to go. My thoughts are that you want to stick the straw right up to the switches to try and direct the spray into the contacts.

If it's just popping the housing off like the way this guy is doing, then maybe that wouldn't be too difficult. What do you think?

Not having done this myself and it not being my bike it seems quite doable. You might want to message @Old git on a Harley if you want some reassurance or additional guidance.

The rest of the video really isn't applicable, but if it's just unscrewing the top of the housing, then I might be game. I'd just spray in there with WD-40 I'm assuming.

That seems to be what @Old git on a Harley says he did. You might want to get some paper towels into the lower clamshell to catch any run off. Using the straw on the nozzle should help reduce overspray.

 

[gregamart]

Thanks for the follow-up input.

I'm kind of searching around for a mechanic that help me out with this. People keep directing me to Harley itself. I feel that might get kind of pricey.

 

[PugslyCat]

This particular task is something that any motorcycle mechanic should be able to do. The guy I consider to be my independent mechanic is the Kawasaki dealer a town over, but the bulk of his business is actually used bikes. It's the kind of place that I could go and run this idea past the mechanic over a cup of coffee and he'd either point out the possible pitfalls, give me a few tips, or say "You better bring it in" only if that's his honest assessment.

I forget which city you are in right now, but Yelp has lists of motorcycle repair shops in San Antonio and Austin.

It seems that your bike has had enough problems for long time and none of the mechanics you have taken it to has made any lasting improvement. They are nickel and diming you to death. That has gotten you to the point that the bike is pretty much a paper weight right now. The best option, and long term best value, really may be to take it to the Harley dealer to at least diagnose the problems.

I called Cowboy's Alamo City Harley-Davidson in San Antonio and they do pre-buy inspections for something like $57 plus tax. It's basically the same thing they do to evaluate trade in bikes and pretty much what you would be asking them to do. Just be up front that it's a bike you already have and need some guidance. They just need to spend 0.5-1.0 hours of diagnostic time and come up with a plan on how to get the bike roadworthy again. They could read that code causing your check engine light and provide a punch list of work that needs done. I'm not saying to have them do any or all the work, but they would at least give you some guidance of what needs done and what it would cost.

There are other Harley-Davidson dealerships in San Antonio and Austin. Their prices for pre-buy inspections will vary. For example, I also called Loess Hills Harley-Davidson here in Iowa and they do a similar inspection and charge for an hour of diagnostic time, which is around $120.

In past threads you have said that it's been showing a check engine light for a long time. Those are prompted by a diagnostic code, which somebody should be able to read. That's why diagnostic codes exist. If the mechanic doesn't know what code is causing the check engine light he's just guessing. As I recall, your independent mechanics last guess was that you need to spend better than $1,000 for to replace the complete wiring harness. If he's wrong, you will have spent that money for nothing and missed the opportunity to do what really needs done to make the bike rideable again.

 

[gregamart]

I'm up here in Dallas Fort Worth for the moment still going nowhere fast.

The other night apparently I luckily got home. This happened the exact same time last year. My battery isn't even a year old.

It somehow got home on the last bit of juice idk, because now it won't even turn over and I've hopefully had it on my Jr. battery tender.

Idk what to make of it now. It went from running awesome one minute to down for the count. It's so aggravating. With the weather it was too cold to stay on top of charging my bike with the Jr. battery tender.

Thanks for all that information. The Cycle Gear guys keep pushing me to one store. They have a mechanic from an old store I used to use. There's also a brand new Harley-Davidson in Allen.

I may have to look for a mobile mechanic, but up here this time.

 

[gregamart]

If that Kawasaki mechanic is in Boerne, I may know him.

 

[gregamart]

I think that trying to do this without opening the clamshell will just make a mess of things and not allow the WD-40 to get into where it needs to go. My thoughts are that you want to stick the straw right up to the switches to try and direct the spray into the contacts.
Not having done this myself and it not being my bike it seems quite doable. You might want to message @Old git on a Harley if you want some reassurance or additional guidance.

That seems to be what @Old git on a Harley says he did. You might want to get some paper towels into the lower clamshell to catch any run off. Using the straw on the nozzle should help reduce overspray.

I am going to contact that Old Git. I've been calling around to Mobile Mechanics. They either want to do a diagnostic or though not too expensive could still be pricey for an idea that might not work.

 

[gregamart]

Did Old Git delete his stuff? lol

Or maybe he just blocked me for asking for help??? lol

I can say this my buddy/mechanic helped me turn my bike over no problem now. The only issue is the lagging for me now. Maybe OG got overwhelmed with inquiries. I'd much rather try his technique as a last ditch effort, then changing out the wiring harness, but that's just me.

 

[PugslyCat]

What did your buddy/mechanic do to get it to go? Did you run the idea of spraying down the switch with WD-40 or contact cleaner to possibly displace any water or debris?

@Old git on a Harley is around, just not posting much lately. On the previously mentioned crank sensor thread he pointed out that things don't just fall apart because of the other cables going into the housing. That made me feel better about undoing a few screws and giving the switch a good spray, but it's neither me nor my bike involved. One would probably want to mop up any puddles within the clamshell before putting it back together again.

 

[gregamart]

It was a don't ask don't tell number. I appreciate it, so I've taken a vow of silence.

Yeah, I did. He already was of the disposition about the wiring harness is at fault. He's a pretty straight shooter, but if this idea, which I agree seems a little far-fetched, worked, then I was game. I was hoping it was some kind of odd quirkiness with the bike.

 

[gregamart]

What's the standard psi for tires for Spring/Summer in Texas do you think?

 

[Clavinavi]

34 front 42 rear (so says the manual on page 52) Cold
17 inch front 15 inch rear. 2016

 

[PugslyCat]

There is a label on the front right frame tube with that information. That pressure should be accurate for any season and ambient air temperature for cold tires.

When you ride the bike the tires will heat up. When air in them heats up it tries to expand but is restricted by the tire, increasing the air pressure. Things get real unpredictable then, so that's why you always check tire pressure when cold.

 

[gregamart]

I get it. Check it, when they're cold. I was just curious about the preference in the range. Good info. to keep in mind. Fortunately, my air place is just right around the corner.

I was rolling with only 36psi in my bike back tire. I felt like that was a lot. More air, so more cushy ride for my aching lower back. 😂 Sounds good.

 

[PugslyCat]

A short ride of a couple of blocks at city speeds isn't bad. A friend of mine found that he had a low car tire when he was in town and decided to not worry about it until he got out of town to his farm. By the time he got those several miles at 50 mph the tire that had been low on air suddenly measured 10 psi higher than the tires that weren't low back in town. The partially deflated tire was softer and had a larger contact patch than the other three. This caused it to heat up faster which increased the air pressure.

Another issue with low tire pressure is that the tire is able to deform more due to cornering forces. This could lead to bead separation and a blow out when cornering at speed.

Improper tire pressure can also cause problems with braking and lead to premature tire wear. On the 2015's you already have enough trouble with braking and we all have to buy tires too often as it is.

 

[gregamart]

Good story. I really watch mine to get the best gas mileage that I can and comfort. Plus, you're right safety is important. I worry about cornering, especially as I've gotten better at taking them with more experience.