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Hello all. I recently went on a ride after an oil change and the ride was great but on the way home I noticed when I stopped at a red light my idle was high. The bike would idle at 2k rpm instead of the usual 1300-1500ish before. This of course caused a check engine light and the code P0507. The bike runs great other than the high idle and it performs as it should as well. Another thing to take note on is I can reset the code on the bike and it will idle at the correct RPM but as soon as I go around the block to see if anything has changed it goes back to idling at 2k rpm. Some info on the bike- Fp3 tuner, V&H slip on and K&N HiFlow filter. I'm running a tune for the filter and slip on. The tune has been on the bike for almost a year and I haven't had any issues. Steps I've tried- Going back to original tune, Trying other tunes, Replaced IAC valve, Cleaned throttle body ports/Butterfly valves, checked wire connections by throttle body, sprayed throttle body cleaner around breather hoses to check for air leaks(none i could see atleast)... My confidence is quickly fading and I need more brains to help me think this through.

Going to Harley is my last resort I would prefer to tackle the issue myself and save some money.. I was quoted $800 to have my front fork seals rebuilt(rebuilt them myself) so I cant imagine the cost of them trying to figure something out.

Thanks for your time reading my story any help would be appreciated its my only bike and all I want to do it ride!
 

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2016 Harley-Davidson Street 750 in Sunglo Velocity Red
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A quick check online says that "0507 is a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for 'Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected'". Common causes are air intake leaks and charging system issues. As Les points out, an intake leak can cause the bike to inject more fuel to correct the mixture. If the battery isn't charging correctly at normal idle speeds that may cause a fast idle, which is really all the code is telling you about.

I would start with checking for leaks through and around the K&N HiFlow filter, then have the battery tested.
 
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Hello all. I recently went on a ride after an oil change and the ride was great but on the way home I noticed when I stopped at a red light my idle was high. The bike would idle at 2k rpm instead of the usual 1300-1500ish before. This of course caused a check engine light and the code P0507. The bike runs great other than the high idle and it performs as it should as well. Another thing to take note on is I can reset the code on the bike and it will idle at the correct RPM but as soon as I go around the block to see if anything has changed it goes back to idling at 2k rpm. Some info on the bike- Fp3 tuner, V&H slip on and K&N HiFlow filter. I'm running a tune for the filter and slip on. The tune has been on the bike for almost a year and I haven't had any issues. Steps I've tried- Going back to original tune, Trying other tunes, Replaced IAC valve, Cleaned throttle body ports/Butterfly valves, checked wire connections by throttle body, sprayed throttle body cleaner around breather hoses to check for air leaks(none i could see atleast)... My confidence is quickly fading and I need more brains to help me think this through.

Going to Harley is my last resort I would prefer to tackle the issue myself and save some money.. I was quoted $800 to have my front fork seals rebuilt(rebuilt them myself) so I cant imagine the cost of them trying to figure something out.

Thanks for your time reading my story any help would be appreciated its my only bike and all I want to do it ride!
Just asking have you checked the throttle cable retreats to idle. Maybe just some throttle cable lube is all you need. I have heard many issues with FP3. Just use the screaming eagle if possible.
 

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Hi,Bott! I dont have a pc connected but i have the fuelpak3 connected to my Bike and can read the Errors. Sry for my Bad english but in Germany Nobody wants to Help me.... Thank you for your answer! The fuelpak3 Show me this Errors.
Everytime P0507 and Sometimes after riding P0122. I have cleaned everything,checked the wires,renew the gasket,and tried to Change the Idle RPM with fuelpak without any result...
 

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One is a hard code set, then the others are phantom and begin to collect on the main's source. So P0122 is a phantom code. We want to clear the P0507 first.

Remove the fuelpak from the OEM loop. That means you can't just remove the ground. On the hot side of the pac wire, it' still hot to the sensor it's plugged into and that has a ground, so both hot and ground wires are completely out of the loop is disable the pac.

On the lean side, post #4 is explaining a possible air leak and it's over compensating for the leak it can't close in other words. So it's showing the same results over and over again and trips a code.

The diagnostic tree reads like this:

1. Connector not connected - This is obvious if the connector ends are dangling.
2. Wire out of connector - This is where it's just about hanging on inside the connector, but is not making full contact and/or completely out of the connector being another obvious sign.
3. Short/open/out of range - I'll break this down:
a. Short is like a blown fuse and has a direct short to ground.
b. Open is one long wire that is in the main harness and a wire breaks somewhere along the route of the main harness is an open example.
c. Signal out of range - Say there is an ohm resistance reading of the sensor. That could show an out of range pre shop manual's given parameters.

You should now see by clearing the codes, the 3 do not apply. Get it? It's not a bad sensor, it's not a wire down from ECU to sensor. It's that simple to understand the complex is going to trip you up or not?

C is sort of complicated to understand, but is easy to see. This means the input of a sensor is sending in a lot of different numbers like the coolant temp rising, or the TPS throttle opening and all those different input changes.

So analog means many, and digital means one. The ECU is expecting many different temp changes, many throttle openings, rpm speeds, loads at the throttle opening at the IAP (intake air pressure) sensor, to name a few. So that says the sensors are constantly sending in analog signals that are within spec.

A code is set when the analog changes to a digital signal. So that goes back to the connectors 1 and 2. Both of those are not sending in a different signal anymore, but the same signal over and over. The ECU is a computer processor and reads a binary number. This is converting an electrical pulse to show a temp is changing, how open is the throttle, how fast is the rpm, etc.

To look at an analog signal; it is shown as 01101011101010 = Analog.
To look at a digital signal, its input is read as 00000000000 = Digital.

When the key is turned off, the last good known signal is saved as 1011 for a number example.
When the signal is saved, it knows for example who was the last to fire off the plug. But if it keeps reading 0000, it throws a code.

Right now, it's not 1 or 2, but 3's C being signal out of range, not short, not open. Notice the OP cleared the code, and it popped up again. This shows it's not 1, not 2, but 3c. Because there is an air leak and the 02 can't correct it, thus the code sent.

Therefore, you'll look for two things: 1) is the air leak at the intake manifold inlet of either cylinder, but will this spit a front cylinder code, or a rear cylinder code, I have no clue how expanded the code list is to pick out either cylinder? So let's say an air leak.

Then there is the piggyback that might interfere with a good known signal within range, sending in an out of range signal. It's either or. That's why you have to go right back to stock to save a good known signal, then install the piggy-back into play... I'm guessing.

This is the basic concept of diagnosing a computer bike, by reading the trouble tree of a computer bike and know the theory behind a code.

Signed,
NOLTT (no on listens to turtle)
 
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