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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a real hard time bleeding my back brake.
Tomorrow I will try reverse bleeding it. Maybe that will help.

I'm just really suspicious, in general of the bike's rear master cylinder. While looking at it (master cyl), I think it looks like you have to remove the pipe in order to take it off. :eek:
Can anyone please confirm or tell me that's not the case?

It uses Allen screws with the heads between the exhaust pipe and the mounts. The screws are long enough they won't be able to be wiggled/pulled out in that small space. If I have to do this, when I reinstall the Allen screws I'll put the heads INTERIOR of the mounts. Plenty of room to pull them out that way.

Anyway, can anyone please tell me if you do (or don't) have to remove the exhaust pipe, or at least loosen it at the head, in order to remove the rear brake master cyl?

I bought a new /used one off eBay. It looks really nice and has clean clear fluid in it. But mine might be ok, too - that's what I hope to find out when I try the reverse bleed method tomorrow.

thanks!
Em in FL
(bike is a 2015)
 

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I Bled my Rear Brake. What happened was, I replaced the Rear Pads. Pushed the Piston in maybe a 1/16". Then the pedal went to the floor. I opened the Bleeder. Got very little fluid out. Checked the Reservoir. It was almost to the bottom. Ran to the auto parts store. Bought a 12oz bottle of Valvoline Synthetic Dot 3/4. I bled it myself. Using a air powered vacuum gun. That is made for Flushing Brakes on a car. Just dialed the air pressure back to around 40 psi. And kept checking the fluid. Looked at the Front Reservoir. Saw white clouds in it. Flushed that one as well.


It is Required every 2 years to Flush the brake fluid. Using DOT 4.


Now to your Problem. Is fluid coming out? If not, Is the Bleeder passage clear of dirt? Is there dirt inside the Reservoir? Have a Friend sit on the bike. And push the pedal while opening the bleeder. Hold the pedal down and close the bleeder. Check your fluid each time as the reservoir is small.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi, thanks for the response. Yeah from time to time I had some fluid coming out - especially if I had a helper to push the brake pedal up and down. It just didn't quite seem to want to get up over the slight curve in the clear tubing I had on the bleed nipple.

I used a MityVac, which has served me well in previous brake bleeding "adventures".

I had installed a brand new line - a HEL. So it (the brake line) had NO fluid in it at all. I think that's part of the problem.
Tomorrow I want to try a couple of reverse bleeding methods involving a syringe, forcing the fluid forward.
I was just having no luck trying to bleed from MC back to caliper.
I did poke through the 2 little holes in the "floor" of the MC, they are much cleaner now.
The whole thing is cleaner. The fluid had gone really brown and sticky.
2015 bike approx 2 years old, soooo yeah I guess it's REALLY time.
Will deal with the front as soon as I get past the rear.

Anyway, it just doesn't seem that the MC is pushing sufficient fluid.

I really like the bleeding instructions HEL has online:
Bleeding Instructions | HEL Performance USA

I really like it near the end when they finally admit things might not be as simple as they first suggest.
Like it starts out real simple and obvious, and then gets into the troubleshooting, reverse bleeding, etc.!
Can't wait to try this method "Priming the system the easy way".

Anyway, I'm glad you got your new pads. Were the old ones really thin? I'm sure I could use new ones too.
Do you have to remove the caliper to replace them? Doesn't look like it would be too hard to remove.

thx
 

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I changed the Pads Front and Rear to EBC FA643V. They were not worn. Just looking for something better than Stock.


The Line you installed, Is the Inside the Same Diameter?? If its too big, You'll loose pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm pretty sure the inside diameter on the HEL lines is less, they are very skinny. Thx for the number on your pads, btw.
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