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Discussion Starter #1
So my bike has been having difficulty starting. It's not the battery, it was checked by a mechanic. There is an electrical smell coming from the left side near the coils. I'm assuming that's where the problem is. My fuelpak also displayed error codes with the front and rear ignition. Just curious if anyone had the same issue and how much it cost to fix. My bike is a 15 with just under 5K miles and is outside the warranty. It's being towed to the dealer tomorrow. Any information helps. Thanks.
 

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Maybe the coil has a short. There are Separate Trigger Leads for each cylinder. Possibly a breakdown in the insulation between them.
 

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Let us know the final outcome from the workbench. The way you describe it, the electrical smell is one issue and the low compression opens the way to something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Went back to the dealer again at the end of the day. They said the cam timing was off and the chain probably skipped a tooth. They said if that's the problem it might not be that expensive. If they fix it and it has other problems then naturally it will cost more. I never heard any abnormal sounds when it was running so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the pistons didn't damage the valves. I'll keep you guys posted. I'm hoping to have my bike ready to ride by Sunday here in Korea. I should also learn to speak Korean because the language barrier is killing me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got bad news today. Due to the timing issue, the valves were bent from hitting the pistons. The overall quote was around $4000. Labor price is reasonable at less than $50 an hour but would take them about another 10 hours once everything was done. The biggest cost was full cylinder heads at $1100 a piece. They are telling me that they can't remove the valves because of how bent they are. I'm under the impression that they just don't want to remove them and would rather install new ones. At this point I'm already in the hole for about $150 for the labor up to this point. I will probably have them stop and tow it back to my place. If I can remove the valves and there is no damage to the heads then I should be able to save over $2000. I don't have the cash outright to dump into fixing it. Looks like the bike will be sitting for a while. On the plus side, here is what the engine looks like ripped apart for those who are interested.
 

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Are the valve guides part of the head casting or are they replaceable? A good VW machine shop may be able to rebuild the heads, including boring the valve guides and installing replaceable guides. Why did the chain jump? That's the big question.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have no idea why or how the timing issue happened. I will be picking up the parts and towing the bike tomorrow when they open. Once I have time to spend with the heads I will figure out how I will proceed.
 

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Timothy Rich posted this on the FaceBook group. It might be something to look for:

I replaced the head and noticed the keyway on the mainstay behind the rotor had sheared and the timing jumped about 4 teeth off on the rear cylinder. I corrected that issue, retimed the cylinder, and adjusted the valves.
 

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Correct me if I am wrong here. Both heads have bent valves? And isn't they're 2 separate Timing Chains? The Chains are on opposite sides?
 

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Reading through these forums there has been a few riders with keyway, front sprocket (loose lock washer) and other issues like this jumped timing gear.

For me, and I am by far no mechanic, the common denominator would be "snatching". By this I am implying that allowing these XG motors to snatch in too high a gear at low speeds or just by riding to slow for the gear selected, there is a big negative load through the motor. Something simple like a keyway may shear through excessive snatching. Once the engine is on song, what a beautiful note!

Again, just a thought I have on these kind of issues some of us are having.
 
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