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Yes, I went to Full Syn (Amsoil) at about 700 miles, better shifting was noticed immediately. I'm staying with it, in fact I'm about due for my 5000 mile change and check up.
 

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man.... still the age old debate... I will send a link to a video that will end the debate once and for all.... Synthetic is better in everyway... Of course when I break in a motor, I use conventional, due to the 500 mile interval to change and it being cheap to do so, and it's what I have done from the beginning, an old school machinist taught me that and he did it that way for every factory rebuild and every race motor and every turbo/super setup... 40+ years he was an ASE cert'd and had a ton of experience...
 

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I have Questions concerning the Oil. Does anyone know what SAE Grade the Harley oil is? Is it SJ? SM? This is the First Motorcycle I have owned that doesn't specify the SAE. MA or MA2? I've been using Valvoline Synthetic 20/50 SJ with MA2 ratings. The 2010 Yamaha Majesty called for SG or Higher. I used the Valvoline Synthetic 10/40 SJ MA2. 14k Miles and never had a problem.


As far as a Filter? I have been using a Bosch Distance Plus D3300 on mine.
 

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I couldn't have said it better myself.... Every motorcycle/automobile I own, factory or performance, every turbo/super setup I do, I use synthetic.... No ifs ands or buts....
 

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I highly recommend Amsoil full synthetic. You will notice that the gears shift more smoothly and you will be able to shift into neutral much better. Dealer wanted around $300 - I did it myself for $60 in oil and $15 for a stainless steel K&N oil filter. BTW you may want to change the round gasket for the oil plug while you're at it. It cost $0.90 at the dealership.
 

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Oil drain plug gaskets and o-rings always get changed every oil change whenever I do the work, at least that's what people are supposed to do...
 

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Owned cars for over 25 years, including a couple with high performance tight tolerance engines. Always used conventional oil. Never had a problem. As long as you change the oil when you should, conventional works perfectly fine.

With my Street 750 I have a chatter that happens when the clutch is in the friction zone during low speed maneuvers. I did my 5k service myself and used synthetic oil this time to see if that would cut down on the chatter. It didn't make any difference at all. So I am likely going back to conventional from here out. YMMV.
 

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Owned cars for over 25 years, including a couple with high performance tight tolerance engines. Always used conventional oil. Never had a problem. As long as you change the oil when you should, conventional works perfectly fine.

With my Street 750 I have a chatter that happens when the clutch is in the friction zone during low speed maneuvers. I did my 5k service myself and used synthetic oil this time to see if that would cut down on the chatter. It didn't make any difference at all. So I am likely going back to conventional from here out. YMMV.
Exactly my point.... Did you not see the comparison video? And that was 25+ years in the past.... Things, including technology have changed... Some still hold true, others have changed with the times.... That's coming from a mechanical/engineering background with pictures, numbers, and logs of rebuilds and experience? Or is that coming from a customers standpoint in not believing in the price and kept conventional for that reason? You cannot convince me otherwise to switch from fully synthetic to conventional, other than an engine rebuild/break-in....

And we all know the shifting system in our Street models isn't exactly performance either... Mostly the foot controls and lever...
 

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Exactly my point.... Did you not see the comparison video? And that was 25+ years in the past.... Things, including technology have changed... Some still hold true, others have changed with the times.... That's coming from a mechanical/engineering background with pictures, numbers, and logs of rebuilds and experience? Or is that coming from a customers standpoint in not believing in the price and kept conventional for that reason? You cannot convince me otherwise to switch from fully synthetic to conventional, other than an engine rebuild/break-in....

And we all know the shifting system in our Street models isn't exactly performance either... Mostly the foot controls and lever...
Actually that is coming from an engineer, and based on information from a mechanical engineer who also supped up and raced cars. Do I have logs and numbers? No. But I have a few cars that I drove for 130,000 miles before selling on conventional oil and let us just say I didn't baby them at all. And I have never had a car with an oil related problem.

Price actually doesn't mean anything to me, I earn a good living. For me, I try and use what the car shipped with. If synthetic oils were that important the vehicles would ship from the factory with them don't you think? Is the Synthetic better? Probably. But with proper maintenance will the difference in quality impact me at all? Probably not.

And like I said, just posting my opinion. Not trying to sway yours. YMMV.
 

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Who is the engineer? You or the Youtuber that I sent the link on? Well if you don't have black and white numbers, proof to back it up, then I would say it's farfetch'd... 130k and never an oil change? 130k with 3k intense service intervals? Or 130k with what? I know plenty of cars with oil related problems... Chrysler 2.5, 2.7, 3.0. 3.5 HO, I could keep going and going and going.... And plenty of vehicles nowadays get shipped from the factory with synthetic oil and already changed the intervals in the service manuals to 5k or 7.5k whatever they made them to be... Price to you doesn't mean anything, but I know plenty of people that are cheap as all **** with their cars, I work on them daily for custom high paying jobs or basic repair and maintenance, some people will spend the $$$ to do it right, others want to literally cut corners and get it out the door....

Of course, tomato tomatoe.... but real live numbers, logs, and data doesn't lie.. See for yourself.... One test amongst many others proves that...
 

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Who is the engineer? You or the Youtuber that I sent the link on? Well if you don't have black and white numbers, proof to back it up, then I would say it's farfetch'd... 130k and never an oil change? 130k with 3k intense service intervals? Or 130k with what? I know plenty of cars with oil related problems... Chrysler 2.5, 2.7, 3.0. 3.5 HO, I could keep going and going and going.... And plenty of vehicles nowadays get shipped from the factory with synthetic oil and already changed the intervals in the service manuals to 5k or 7.5k whatever they made them to be... Price to you doesn't mean anything, but I know plenty of people that are cheap as all **** with their cars, I work on them daily for custom high paying jobs or basic repair and maintenance, some people will spend the $$$ to do it right, others want to literally cut corners and get it out the door....

Of course, tomato tomatoe.... but real live numbers, logs, and data doesn't lie.. See for yourself.... One test amongst many others proves that...
Did you intentionally not read? Are you intentionally trying to pick an argument? I don't really care enough to participate if that is the case.

I am an engineer. Went to the university of Louisville Engineering school. The guy in the video probably is too. Good for him.

I clearly said with proper maintenance. Meaning if you change the oil and filter when you are supposed to, then conventional will work fine and make a car last a long, long time. For me, I have never had a car where the engine didn't outlast the rest of the car easily.

I have been driving Japanese and German cars since 1992 and have had no oil issues with any of those. I only know of one person who has ever had an oil issue with a Japanese engine and that was a guy driving a 1986 Toyota Supra who put in a racing cam, and twin turbos. He kept burning up one of the cylinders as the oil pump couldn't keep up.

I also said I believe in using whatever the car was shipped with. So if as you say, you receive a car that came from the factory with Synthetic oil, then you should certainly use Synthetic oil. Just saying it is probably overkill for most other engines that were designed to run on conventional. Oh, and many cars have extended the service intervals for oil changes when running conventional too. That isn't just a synthetic thing.

Can we agree that doing an oil change when you are supposed to is probably more important than the oil you put in?
 

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I've used both regular and synthetic in mine. Mine actually shifts better with regular. For the heavy traffic and lots of stop&go where I ride, I'm sticking with regular at 2500 mile intervals.
 

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Did you intentionally not read? Are you intentionally trying to pick an argument? I don't really care enough to participate if that is the case.

I am an engineer. Went to the university of Louisville Engineering school. The guy in the video probably is too. Good for him.

I clearly said with proper maintenance. Meaning if you change the oil and filter when you are supposed to, then conventional will work fine and make a car last a long, long time. For me, I have never had a car where the engine didn't outlast the rest of the car easily.

I have been driving Japanese and German cars since 1992 and have had no oil issues with any of those. I only know of one person who has ever had an oil issue with a Japanese engine and that was a guy driving a 1986 Toyota Supra who put in a racing cam, and twin turbos. He kept burning up one of the cylinders as the oil pump couldn't keep up.

I also said I believe in using whatever the car was shipped with. So if as you say, you receive a car that came from the factory with Synthetic oil, then you should certainly use Synthetic oil. Just saying it is probably overkill for most other engines that were designed to run on conventional. Oh, and many cars have extended the service intervals for oil changes when running conventional too. That isn't just a synthetic thing.

Can we agree that doing an oil change when you are supposed to is probably more important than the oil you put in?
I did read that's why I quoted you... This entire thread is a debate, something vs. something, pros and cons.... and you aren't the only one with a degree... Good for you too.... And as I have said most people, neglecting maintenance and pushing service intervals to the max, conventional will fail drastically compared to synthetic... Average people barely know how to put gasoline in the tank, let alone follow service intervals... TPMS came around from DOT and everyone else saying people are basically too stupid or neglectful to watch the air pressure in their tires... but if you did the service interval checks like you are SUPPOSED to do, you would catch that...

And the right viscosity and API/SAE/ASME yada yada ratings also make a difference, so there is a lot of hair splitting in the industry... I chose synthetic over conventional and listed above are my reasons with video evidence to back it up.... If someone proves otherwise synthetic oil isn't any better than the rest, please, show us logs, videos, something tangible so we can verify... I
 

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I've been using a Bosch Distance Plus on mine. After doing some research I found out, Street uses the same oil filter as a previous car I owned. A 1993 Escort GT.
 

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I've been using a Bosch Distance Plus on mine. After doing some research I found out, Street uses the same oil filter as a previous car I owned. A 1993 Escort GT.
The good old mercury tracer I mean ford escort.... Cars of the 90s along with the Tempo lol... Which engine for that filter?
 
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