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Street 750 2017
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently took my bike to the dealer regarding a Relay issue causing starter problems. Got it fixed, but they said that there was a particular knocking/ticking sound which is apparently a valvetrain issue and requires the head of a cylinder to be removed and adjusted.

Is this a known issue or an absolutely needed fix or is the bike driveable?
So far there have been no issues while driving and the loud screaming eagle exhaust drowns out the ticking noise unless you carefully listen.
 

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"Loose Nut" from Bandera, Texas
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That's a tough one to answer. If it's a simple valve adjustment issue, which is a maintenance item, then it should be no big deal to get done. If they are saying it involves engine tear down, then I would definitely have a second opinion.
 

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2016 Harley-Davidson Street 750 in Sunglo Velocity Red
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How many miles are on the bike? You should expect to have to check and adjust valve lash ever 15K miles (24K kilometers). That could be what the dealer has in mind.
 

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"Loose Nut" from Bandera, Texas
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Price is in line for a dealer valve adjustment. Did the dealer put the quote 9f services needed in writing, it so, exactly what did it say?
 

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"Loose Nut" from Bandera, Texas
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Below is a cut and paste of maintenance schedule. Valve adjustment is a recommended at 15k, 30k and 45k, repeating every 15k miles. Not knowing the history of your bike, might be a good idea to get it done. Strange noises very seldom go away on their own. Keep us informed.

Font Rectangle Parallel Number Pattern

Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Slope
 

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Street 750 2017
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’ll keep y’all posted about the same but what I’m wondering is, the bike was brought in for its yearly service in may 2022 and if it was a routine maintenance check why wasn’t the valve train issue addressed?
 

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2016 Harley-Davidson Street 750 in Sunglo Velocity Red
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You would have to ask the dealer about that. Maybe the tech didn't think it was that bad, maybe it just wasn't on his list of things to check.
 
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On the plus side, if it is a loose valve adjustment it is not a big problem.. Other than an annoying ticking sound and will not cause any harmful issues. It is far better to have a loose valve gap rather than a tight one which could end up burning the valve out.
 

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Compression test shows how long the valve stays open for a different read. Leak would not show it. This would be more a bent pushrod keeping the valve from opening wider at lift. Those two read differences.

Tick is dangerous being too tight.
Clack is more loose, but then out of spec clearances is not the call.

This is more respect the 'Formula.' It's not a slap it together close enough.

Signed,
Home he here at home does not guess. There is a book to address.
 

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As the Street 500 and 750 engines are OHC,
they do not have 'Push Rods, they use"Cam Followers" which act directly off the Camshaft. An overtight clearance (or lack of clearance) can produce a heavy tick noise but more seriously would be accompanied by a lack of power and possible backfires eventually allowing hot gasses to bypass the valve and seat and then burning out the valve.
A correctly set clearance is always preferable, but consider :- the "classic" cars and motorcycles adapted for 'racing' have their valve clearances set on the very loose side, this allows for extreme heat expansion of the valves and valve train etc.
As a classic motorcycle and car technician I have built many engines and err on the side of a looser clearance rather than a tight one.
But as you say.. The correct setting is always preferable.
 

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Well Rich,
Let's extend the conversation some. Not familiar with the engine family, just like to answer in the generic where it applies. With the OHC design, I'll now say using that compression difference will be a wiped cam lobe not opening said valve lift. Kind of same applies, thank you for the engine family design correction. I had Ron's Harley, but they shut it down, my computer is too old, they no longer have the parts lookup on their website, or I would have caught myself knowing it was fuel injected when I did look that up before answering a question.

Why I'd be booted off bye now on HD twins site. It was universal, but someone there is, or that group think is a little out there being it's just a F'ing bike. LOL

And speaking about valves, I too run book loose. I'll explain how I see it:

1. Bottom end grunt. This is the loose setting, if say 1-2-3 are the breakout and bluebook settings. Loose, sits as you say with more heat time sitting and cooling off. I see it as taking advantage of the power stroke's diminishing return and that small extended bite in time.
2. This is the middle book setting, or bluebook is the best of both ends. Thus the compromise of book formula using this.
3. This is the tightest setting, the faster event setting, the squeeze a few more km's out of it, more at the top end. But this is more the closed course setting on a short fuse like a drag strip. Road race, sure, if I had new valves, seats to replace, that kind of budget to go round-de-round.
 

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Thanks for your technical knowledge Bott, and you are quite correct in your information.
I did not want to sound like I am a "know it all" in my comments and I apologise if I came over in that way. I was merely trying to give the thread my opinion. As I have said, I have extensive knowledge of (British) Classic Cars and Motorcycles (45 years)., rebuilding engines ranging from Jaguar E-Type to Triumph Bonnie's and Sunbeams etc. Classic engines are one thing and modern ones another, so I welcome any comments which are valid and take yours on board.
 

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Ha! I guess we both [wear out loud] that badge of 'know it all,' because we've see just about as much worn out, clapped out, and a load of variables to discover. Oh, excuse us if we ring it off the top of our head as if we knew every failure ever presented, have the answer, and the smack in the face for a good deed when answered. Anyway, you know one of those proverbs I mean.

I answer tech questions just for cranial stimulus at my declining age, and have come across what I call the guru's of the forums. I see it does not work in theory, I call the guru on it. Get called all sorts of names, as I proverb up on the 'do unto others' as they wish they never started it, say. Finally get booted off because I like a good tune up as I step it up on the language for a laugh on my end. For example, said an idle lean drop is needed for said model. Guru said it was for 2-strokes only. Second guru agreed [with me] when I said it works for both. He owns the bike, is certified yammie mechanic and I just generically apply the theory to the problem.

Your comment to me was me saying, 'someone who can decipher a 'tick' and can explain it,' was far from you thinking it was a know it all answer. Therefore, apology is not needed. You came over more refreshed to hear another one deep in the trenches.

Background for me is owning a lot of bikes, racing a lot of bikes, a lull for 7 years for I got bit good when I binned this one. Then, back to totaling or rotating bikes, to learn fuel injection on my own. I didn't know where to start, so I reversed the engineering as guess I could. Finally figured enough out to calm my craving as to how it works.

So say I can work on a points bike, to black box diagnosing, to a carb sync, to a wink-wink, throttle body sync. Know it all.... I wish. More like retired now, and the wrenching is still happening, but this time I'm the grunt in the pits. The prep the race bikes, load the race bikes, come for your trophies racing, but this time in the senior class, with the rest of the old farts and slow bikes.

I'm still living the dream.
 
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