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"Loose Nut" from Bandera, Texas
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For most we are in the grips of winter and many bikes are in hibernation. Anyone have any winter projects they are working on. Maybe tires, bars, oil change, etc. So, post your winter projects.
 

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2016 Harley-Davidson Street 750 in Sunglo Velocity Red
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I've got three big projects left for the bike before I decide it's finished.
  • Install the Memphis Shades batwing fairing that I've had since this past spring. I know I mentioned that I mostly use the bike for commuting, but it's all state highway and freeway miles so wind is a thing.
  • Buy and install the forward controls from PHD in Thailand. Last year they came out with a new, less expensive design that is pretty reasonably priced. These are kind of a priority for me as they would seem to be the type of accessory that will disappear from the market now that the Streets are a discontinued model.
  • A set of Viking hard bags. I'm kind of torn between the leather wrapped hard bags and the painted hard bags. If I go with the painted ones the winter project for next year will be color matching the fairing and bags to the bike.
Those things will complete my idea of making a baby bagger out of my Street 750.
 

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"Loose Nut" from Bandera, Texas
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like great projects. The batwing fairing will make a huge difference on wind protection. The forward controls makes it nice to stretch out on longer saddle time. Leather bags are nice. Be aware if your bike sits a lot in the sun to keep conditioner on the leather, here in Texas the sun can dry the leather out pretty quickly.
 

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On my side the biggest outlay will be the 10,000 mile dealership service. Two other things I will have to budget for is the replacement of front and rear disk pads, then tire replacement. I am still on the original Scorchers and they are time stamped 2014. In SA the only tire replacement available in the Street specific sizes are ONLY through the dealership. I have tried two independent tire suppliers and they do not import those sizes. So the budget will be a mission on its own.
 

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My windscreen has told me it's mounted to low. I'll have to raise the fork mounts higher up and adjust the handlebar mounts. It's sitting to low, not even above the headlight.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive design Engineering
 

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Les - Yes, there's room to move up the lowers. And, the upper arms can rotate and change angles. Also, the mounts on the bars loosen up to change their angle and position.
I got the screen solidly mounted, but it got too low. I'll have to loosen all the mounts, then move everything up. A helper would help, but I'll have to hold and tighten at the same time.
 

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"Loose Nut" from Bandera, Texas
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can you have the fasteners about 50 percent tight so you can position and it would stay, then final tighten after position correctly. There's been several times I needed a third hand. I've even taped a part in place to assist in final tightening.
 
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Can you have the fasteners about 50 percent tight so you can position and it would stay, then final tighten after position correctly. There's been several times I needed a third hand. I've even taped a part in place to assist in final tightening.
That's about the size of it. It's a lot of fasteners. 3/16" allen in particular. Yes, step one is loosen everything then start the face lift!
It took a while to settle. I set all the fasteners. Then riding would loosen one or more of them. I did an adjustment to get the screen out front more. That's probably when it dropped farther down too. The trick to a wind screen is letting the air flow from underneath and rush into the low pressure zone immediately in back of the screen. Turbulence can be as nasty as unprotected air flow.
 

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I've got three big projects left for the bike before I decide it's finished.
  • Install the Memphis Shades batwing fairing that I've had since this past spring. I know I mentioned that I mostly use the bike for commuting, but it's all state highway and freeway miles so wind is a thing.
  • Buy and install the forward controls from PHD in Thailand. Last year they came out with a new, less expensive design that is pretty reasonably priced. These are kind of a priority for me as they would seem to be the type of accessory that will disappear from the market now that the Streets are a discontinued model.
  • A set of Viking hard bags. I'm kind of torn between the leather wrapped hard bags and the painted hard bags. If I go with the painted ones the winter project for next year will be color matching the fairing and bags to the bike.
Those things will complete my idea of making a baby bagger out of my Street 750.
I've had the Memphis Shades Batwing on for a while now. Definitely made a big difference with the wind!
independent
Where is SA?
 

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2016 Harley-Davidson Street 750 in Sunglo Velocity Red
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I wish there was one of these to fit a Street 750. I would set it up!
Hi @Guaire , you do not need the Y-splitter when you can buy the handlebar-mounted auxiliary power port 69200970 -Black- or 69200971 - Chrome-. The cable plugs into the diagnostic plug in the rear lower wiring loom.

Font Map Circle Auto part Parallel

Product Material property Automotive wheel system Rim Auto part

That's assuming you do not already have something plugged in there, do you?
Cheers, Steve.
 

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Hi @Guaire , you do not need the Y-splitter when you can buy the handlebar-mounted auxiliary power port 69200970 -Black- or 69200971 - Chrome-. The cable plugs into the diagnostic plug in the rear lower wiring loom.

View attachment 28288
View attachment 28287
That's assuming you do not already have something plugged in there, do you?
Cheers, Steve.
Steve - That's a WOW! I wish I had asked this question earlier.
I have 2 extra sets of + and - added on my my battery terminals. Not elegant as they say. One pair is for an after market 12v handle bar socket. The second set of connections is for my Gerbings heated clothing controller. It's a dual controller, upper and lowers. But, I don't like having both of the extras on the battery.
I can use the 12v to recharge the battery. I'll probably keep it on. But, I can remove the Gerbings from the battery and run the clothing from this.
Thanks for showing this!
Bill G
 

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I would probably check whether the aux power socket can cope with the current draw for the heated grips. A phone or GPS will draw a minimal amount of current. For example, I plugged a small car air compressor into a fused aux socket (part of my trickle charger set up), and the fuse popped when the compressor tried to add air into the Street 500 front tyre 42psi. Any HD dealer could tell you the tolerance, as this is not a cigarette lighter socket (which is a different part). They may recommend what you have already set up for hand warmer grips. Cheers, Steve.
 

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I would probably check whether the aux power socket can cope with the current draw for the heated grips. A phone or GPS will draw a minimal amount of current. For example, I plugged a small car air compressor into a fused aux socket (part of my trickle charger set up), and the fuse popped when the compressor tried to add air into the Street 500 front tyre 42psi. Any HD dealer could tell you the tolerance, as this is not a cigarette lighter socket (which is a different part). They may recommend what you have already set up for hand warmer grips. Cheers, Steve.
Steve - I don't use heated grips. When needed, I use battery heated gloves. The jacket liner and under pants liners are not that much of a power draw.
My phone holds a charge very well these days. It doesn't need to be plugged in. I have a Garmin Zumo, but the BeeLine and other navigation apps makes the Zumo unnecessary. I may sell it.
If there's one thing I might go up on is the 5" headlight. On the day I had my seat done, it was early riding in. It was still night at 5 AM. The stock headlight is not impressive.
 
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