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Discussion Starter #1
Even with everything I've read about these I still managed to strip one. I was so careful, got three just fine and the last one I've rounded out completely. Spent two hours trying to get it out. Guess I'll be off to the hardware store today to find an extractor of some sort. Any recommendations?

I was so excited to finally get rid of the mud flap, I felt like I just learned Santa isn't real


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Can you use vice grips on it? I don't know why they torque those bolts down so effing tight on those things.....a little Locktite and a snug should suffice....
 

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And that, my friends, is why you get the dealer to do these installs! You know it's something simple, that you can do, but reading these posts, a number of the bolts received "red" Loctite, and NOT the "blue", so some are near impossible to remove.

If the dealer "F's" it up, strips a bolt, or breaks it, then THEY have to replace the parts (bolts, or whatever) at their cost. let them drill out the broken piece on they're time, while I sit in the HD Lounge drinking coffee!

A LOT less frustration!

Come to think of it, I better get my rear rack ordered so they can install it! LOL
 

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An easy out will work ..I was lucky and all mine came out but one. I agree with 10-4 but if your like me and the closest dealer is 50 miles away and you work 90% of the time...Well I just took the chance ..good luck
 

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We took a hammer and punch to it 3-4 times, then drilled the head off and unscrewed it with pliers.

You want shotgun when I drive to Kansas and kick the Loctite guy's ass?
 

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Even with everything I've read about these I still managed to strip one. I was so careful, got three just fine and the last one I've rounded out completely. Spent two hours trying to get it out. Guess I'll be off to the hardware store today to find an extractor of some sort. Any recommendations?
Harley-Davidson has been over-torquing these bolts during assembly. They can often defy even an impact/hammer wrench and strip out during attempted removal. If that occurs follow the following simple steps.

1. Drill the bolt head off. Use caution and a drill bit size the same diameter as the bolt.
2. Drill a smaller hole down the shank of the bolt to fit an E-Z-Out.
3. Remove the bolt shank with the E-Z-Out. It should come out easily because there's no tension on the threads.
4. Buy a replacement bolt for re-assembly, use a thread locking compound like Loctite, and DON'T over-torque when re-installing.

This bolt is in “shear” (the load is across the diameter of the bolt) and not “tension” (where the load is against the threads and head of the bolt) so torque really isn't all that important. Mostly it just to keep the bolt from falling out.
 

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I had the same issue. I just drilled the dam head off the bolt removed the parts I could then used a pair of channel locks to remove the bolt by first tightening then loosening. Then waited two weeks for replacement bolts that had red loctite on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I successfully got the head off and I'm now left with the stem, and I was able to remove the strut and fender. The screw protrudes about an inch from the frame however I am unable to get it to budge with pliers or vice, I spent about 2 hours trying to drill into it yesterday with no luck either. Does anyone have any tips for getting the drill bit to bite and actually drill into the screw?


Also, I went to several hardware stores and no one has these button head screws in stock. Any tips on where to buy replacements? I believe the size is M10-1.5, is this accurate?
 

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Did you try hitting it with a rubber hammer? That loosened mine.

I bought a different bolt at Lowes, but I bet you can find what you want at Fastenal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not yet, I will try that today. Looks like Fastenal stocks these online and there is a location down the street from me. Will go today, thank you for the recommendation! This fender tidy project has turned into quite an ordeal but looks like I am finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Still working on the stem of the screw, but did take a break to at least get rid of the ugly plastic fender, which was the reason I stripped the screw to begin with! Looks much better, now all I need to do is find some LED turn signals I like that won't cost me $100 to acquire.

 

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And that, my friends, is why you get the dealer to do these installs! You know it's something simple, that you can do, but reading these posts, a number of the bolts received "red" Loctite, and NOT the "blue", so some are near impossible to remove.

If the dealer "F's" it up, strips a bolt, or breaks it, then THEY have to replace the parts (bolts, or whatever) at their cost. let them drill out the broken piece on they're time, while I sit in the HD Lounge drinking coffee!

A LOT less frustration!

Come to think of it, I better get my rear rack ordered so they can install it! LOL
I had recently ordered the rack, sissy bar, and backrest pad. And these words of 10-64's were echoing in my head... but I thought -- come on, it's a bolt... how hard can it be?

Good lord. After trying enough things that a reasonable person would say "enough, let the dealer do it", I decided to heed 10-64's advice, said "enough", and decided to let the dealer do it. Made an appt with the dealer, and they quoted me 1/2 hour of labor to do the job. Cost $45 + misc, so total was $52. But I heard the shop tech. I could see him working on the bike, I could hear the clang-clang-clang-clang as he hammered and hammered and drilled and stripped the heads and cursed and got a torx bit and jammed it in there as far as it would go and that finally got the bolt out. And it took him at least an hour, closer to 90 minutes to get 'em all out and get the new hardware installed. And he had the tools to do the job; I didn't.

I am so glad I didn't have to go through that. I asked him what caused so much trouble and he said yeah, about 1/3 of each one of the bolts was drenched in red LocTite. Mine is a 2015, by the way; it seems like if you have a 2015, you have a good chance at having this issue.

So, I had a peaceful 90 minute wait, paid for 1/2 hour labor, got a free wash & shine while I was at it, and left the dealer with the docking hardware fully installed. A tip of the hat to you, 10-64... your advice here is right on the money.
 

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I had the same problem with a 2016 so it isn't 2015 specific. I was able to get mine loose using a breaker bar and the proper socket (had to buy both). Used one hand to press the socket into the bolt head, then used a rubber mallet to hit the breaker bar arm. Took a while but eventually worked.
 

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If you want high quality replacement socket head bolts, go to boltdepot.com They have both Metric and SAE sizes in an assortment of cap and socket head styles, in stainless, black anodized, or zinc. Some are available cad plated. And in several grades. They also have regular hex (external) headed bolts, nuts, and washers.

Whenever I get a new machine, I look at what hardware will need to be removed for maintenance or adding accessories, and I order new bolts, nuts, washers, and extra screws, before I even start the job. When I get them I store them in a small fishing tackle box from Bass Pro or Cabela's (or Amazon). That way I have them at 10 o'clock at night, when everything else is closed.

One of you folks might post this to the other applicable forums here.
 

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I had recently ordered the rack, sissy bar, and backrest pad. And these words of 10-64's were echoing in my head... but I thought -- come on, it's a bolt... how hard can it be?

Good lord. After trying enough things that a reasonable person would say "enough, let the dealer do it", I decided to heed 10-64's advice, said "enough", and decided to let the dealer do it. Made an appt with the dealer, and they quoted me 1/2 hour of labor to do the job. Cost $45 + misc, so total was $52. But I heard the shop tech. I could see him working on the bike, I could hear the clang-clang-clang-clang as he hammered and hammered and drilled and stripped the heads and cursed and got a torx bit and jammed it in there as far as it would go and that finally got the bolt out. And it took him at least an hour, closer to 90 minutes to get 'em all out and get the new hardware installed. And he had the tools to do the job; I didn't.

I am so glad I didn't have to go through that. I asked him what caused so much trouble and he said yeah, about 1/3 of each one of the bolts was drenched in red LocTite. Mine is a 2015, by the way; it seems like if you have a 2015, you have a good chance at having this issue.

So, I had a peaceful 90 minute wait, paid for 1/2 hour labor, got a free wash & shine while I was at it, and left the dealer with the docking hardware fully installed. A tip of the hat to you, 10-64... your advice here is right on the money.
Too funny; this was EXACTLY the same story as mine (my daughter's bike is a 2016 if that makes any difference, but I was also looking to install the rack, sissy bar, and pad). I also threw in the towel before stripping out bolt #3 and just ran it off to the dealer. I managed to get out the door with only a $32 bill, but goodness me--torx bits, hex bits, breaker bar, nothing worked for me either...and yes, the fender bolts did indeed have red tread locker on them from the factory.
 

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I usually use an Air Impact with an Allen socket set.


if not, use a rubber mallet & a Allen/Torx socket set, and hit the back of the socket with the rubber mallet to keep it seated in there deep while you work it


my Dewalt Impact drill usually does fine on most stuff like this, also...


You can break the LISLE tools from Sears, so I usually buy two sets.
the shock bolts on many bikes are almost this tight




HTH?
 
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